After dyeing, the pieces must be very well rinsed, and the colour raised or brightened with 1 pint of acetic acid in 10 gallons of water.
Many of the Diamine and Titan colours being very fast to acids, but few of them will be affected by this treatment.
In the following tables are given those Diamine, etc., colours especially adapted for the dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton, divided into three groups according to their relation to silk and cotton:--
1. Dye-stuffs possessing a great affinity to cotton and tinting the silk not at all or only very little. To this class belong Chicago blues, Benzo blues, Diamine fast yellow A, Diamine orange G G, Diamine orange D C, Diamine blue B B, Diamine blue 3 B, Diamine sky blue F F, Diamine brilliant blue G, Diamineral blue E, Diamine black B, Mikado browns, Mikado oranges, Mikado yellows.
2. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton and silk the same or nearly the same shade but covering the cotton better than the silk. These are Thioflavine S, Diamine yellow N, Diamine gold, Diamine fast yellow B, Diamine orange B, Diamine grey G, Diamine rose B D, Diamine scarlet S, Diamine scarlet B, Diamine scarlet 3 B, Diamine red 5 B, Diamine fast red F, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine Bordeaux S, Diamine violet N, Oxydiamine violet B, Diamine blue R W, Diamine black H W, Diamine steel blue L, Diamine dark blue B, Union black S, Oxydiamine black D, Diaminogene extra, Diaminogene B, Diamine brown M, Diamine brown 3 G, Diamine green B, Diamine green G.
3. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton more or less different shades than on silk. This group comprises Diamine blue C B, Diamine blue B G, Diamine blue B X, Diamine azo blue 2 R, Diamine blue 3 R, Diamine blue black E, Diamine black R O, Oxydiamine black S O O O, Diamine brown V, Diamine brown B, Diamine bronze G. Cotton brown N produces on silk darker shades than on cotton.
Of course this classification cannot be taken as absolutely correct, as by raising or lowering the temperature during the dyeing process or by a larger or smaller addition of soap or Glauber's salt (common salt, phosphate of soda), the dye-stuffs are more or less influenced in one or the other direction. Diamine violet N, for instance, when dyed with an increased addition of soap would dye the cotton somewhat lighter, but at the same time leave the silk perfectly white.
=Topping with Basic and Acid Dye-stuffs.=--As in very few cases only the desired shade can be obtained in the first instance by bottoming with direct colours, topping generally has to be resorted to. This is best done with basic dyes, in some cases also with acid dye-stuffs in cold or tepid bath with addition of sulphuric acid, hydrochloric or acetic acid.
The use of acid dye-stuffs is restricted to cases where the silk alone is to be shaded. In most cases basic dye-stuffs are made use of, which dye silk and cotton the same shade and deepen the shade of the cotton if the latter has a sufficiently good bottom, thus giving the goods a better and fuller appearance.
It is not advisable to employ basic and acid dye-stuffs in the same bath except when the quantities of either class are very small. Should it be necessary to dye with large quantities of both classes, the acid dye-stuffs are first dyed in a tepid acid bath and then the goods are topped with the basic dye-stuffs in a fresh cold bath with the addition of a little hydrochloric or acetic acid.
Of the basic dye-stuffs which are available, the following are the most suitable for topping: New methylene blue N, and other brands; New blue D and other brands; Cresyl blue, Methylindone B and R, Metaphenylene blue, Indazine; the various brands of Brilliant green, Solid green and Malachite green, Capri green, Cresyl violet, Thioflavine T, New phosphine G, Tannin orange R, and the various brands of Bismarck brown; Safranine, Magenta all brands, Tannin heliotrope, all brands of Neutral violet, Methyl violet.
Of the acid dye-stuffs, the following are good for topping or shading the silk: Cyanole extra, Indigo blue N, Indigo blue S G N, and the various brands of Water blue, Soluble blue, Solid blue, and Induline; the various brands of Acid green and Fast acid green; Indian yellow G and R, Naphthol yellow S, Tropaeoline O and O O, and the various brands of Milling yellow and Orange; Azo red A, Azo rubine A, Archil substitute N, Azo orseille B B, Brilliant orseille C, and the various brands of Eosine, Erythrosine, Rose bengale, Rhodamine, Brilliant croceine and Brilliant scarlet; the various brands of Formyl violet and Acid violet; Aniline grey B and Nigrosine, soluble in water.
_Bright Yellow._--Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S.
_Deep Orange Yellow._--This can be dyed by using 2 lb. Diamine yellow N.
_Gold Yellow._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine gold. Some care must be taken with this, especially not to dye too hot or the silk will be dyed deeper than the cotton.
_Deep Orange._--Use 2 lb. Diamine orange B.
_Bright Rose._--Use 2 lb. Diamine Rose B D. Do not work too high, especially when dyeing light rose shades, as then the silk is apt to take up too much colour.
_Scarlet._--Use in the dye-bath 2 lb. Diamine scarlet H S. The heat of the dye-bath should not be allowed to exceed 160 to 170 F., or there is a risk of the shades becoming somewhat duller.
_Crimson._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine fast red F.
_Violet._--Use 2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B.
_Bright Blue._--A fine shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine blue R W.
_Dark Green._--Use 2 lb. Diamine black H W. This gives a fine shade of bluish green.
_Gold Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine brown 3 G at a low heat, from 150 to 160 F., otherwise the silk takes up too much colour.
_Dark Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine green B.
_Deep Rose._--Dye with 2 lb. Diamine red 10 B.
_Brilliant Yellow._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G; then enter into a cold bath which contains 1-1/2 per cent. Auramine II. This gives a very bright shade of yellow.
_Dark Brown._--Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado brown 3 G O, and then top with 3 lb. Bismarck brown and 1/2 lb. Capri blue G O N.
_Crimson._--Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 5 R O and 2 lb. Hessian purple N.
_Sage Green._--Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado yellow G, 14 oz. Eboli green T and 3 oz. Mikado brown M, then top in a fresh cold bath with 1/2 lb. Auramine II and 1/2 oz. Acridine Orange N 0.
_Leaf Green._--Dye a bottom with 3 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G and 1 lb. Eboli blue B; then top with 1-1/2 lb. Capri green 2 G in a cold bath.
_Deep Brown._--Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 3 R O, 3 lb. Hessian grey S and 1 lb. Hessian brown 2 B N; then top with 7 oz. Azine green T 0 and 2-1/4 lb. Acridine orange N 0.
_Dark Cream._--Bottom with 1 oz. Diamine orange G; then top in a fresh warm bath with 1 oz. Orange G G, 1/2 oz. Indian yellow R, 5 lb.
Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid.
_Brilliant Violet._--Give a bottom with 1 lb. Diamine violet N; then top in a fresh warm bath with 4 oz. Methyl violet B and 2 oz. Rhodamine.
_Slate._--Bottom in a hot bath with 6 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; then top in a fresh bath at 170 F. with 4 oz.
Aniline grey B, 1 oz. Cyanole extra, 5 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb.
acetic acid.
_Black Brown._--Give a bottom with 2 lb. Cotton brown A, 1 lb. Diamine gold and 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O; then top in a fresh bath at 120 F. with 4 oz. New methylene blue N, 1 oz. Safranine and 1/2 oz.
Indian yellow G.
_Bright Violet._--Use 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B and 3/4 oz. Diamine dark blue B; top after dyeing with 1/2 oz. Safranine, 1/4 oz.
Methylindone B and 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra.
_Drab._--Dye with 6 oz. Diamine orange G, 1 lb. Diamine bronze G and 3/4 lb. Diamine brown M, topping afterwards in a bath of 1/4 oz. Aniline grey B and 1/4 oz. Bismarck brown F F.
_Leaf Green._--Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine black H W, and 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow B; top with 1/4 oz. Brilliant green, 1/4 oz. Indian yellow R, 1/2 oz. Thioflavine T and 1/2 oz. Cyanole extra.
_Dark Crimson._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 3/4 lb.
Diamine orange D C and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V, topping with 1 oz.
Magenta and 1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.
_Turquoise Blue._--Use to dye the ground, 6 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow A; top with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 1/4 oz. Brilliant green.
_Dark Grey._--Dye with 1/2 oz. Diamine grey G, and 1-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 1/4 oz. Orange extra and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.
_Brilliant Orange._--Dye with 1 lb. Mikado orange R O, and top with 6 oz. Acridine orange N O and 12 oz. Auramine I I.
_Brown._--Dye a bottom colour with 3 lb. Mikado brown M, and top with 2 lb. Bismarck brown and 6 oz. Cresyl fast violet 2 R N.
_Deep Crimson._--Dye with 1 lb. Columbia black R and top with 6 oz.
Magenta.
_Pale Sea Green._--Use in the dye-bath 1/2 oz. Chrysophenine G, 1-1/2 oz. Chicago blue 6 B and 1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 6 B.
_Bright Crimson._--Dye with 3 lb. Congo Corinth and top with 1 lb.
Magenta.