_Black and Blue._--First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol black 3 B and 10 lb.
bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 13 lb.
Glauber's salt. Third bath, 6-1/2 oz. New Methylene blue N. Work as in the last recipe.
_Green and Claret._--First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol red C and 10 lb.
bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1-1/4 lb.
Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Gold Brown and Blue._--First bath, 2-1/2 oz. orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz.
Orange G G, 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 14 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Dark Brown and Blue._--First bath, 1/2 lb. Orange G G, 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 12 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Black and Green Blue._--First bath, 3 lb. Orange G G, 1 lb. Brilliant cochineal 4 R, 1 lb. Fast acid green B N and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Second bath, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 3-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
We may here note that in all the above recipes the second bath (for dying the cotton) should be used cold or at lukewarm heat and as strong as possible. It is not completely exhausted of colour, only about one-half going on the fibre. If kept as a standing bath this feature should be borne in mind, and less dye-stuff used in the dyeing of the second and following lots of goods.
_Blue and Gold Yellow._--3 lb. Diamine orange G, 13 oz. Naphthol blue G, 14-1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at just under the boil.
_Brown and Blue._--1 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 9-1/2 oz. Diamine sky blue, 1 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian yellow G, 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and 15 lb. Glauber s salt. Work at 170 to 180 F.
In these two last recipes only one bath is used, all the dyes being added at once. This is possible if care be taken that dye-stuffs of two kinds are used, one or more which will dye wool and not cotton from neutral baths, and those direct dyes which dye cotton better than wool.
The temperature should also be kept below the boil and carefully regulated as the operation proceeds and the results begin to show themselves.
_Grey and Orange._--First bath, 3 oz. Orange extra, 1-1/4 lb. Cyanole extra, 1 lb. Azo red A and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz.
Diamine orange D C and 3 oz. Diamine fast yellow B.
_Green and Red._--First bath, 2 lb. Croceine A Z, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Brown and Violet._--First bath, 3/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 lb. Cyanole extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine brilliant blue G, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Black and Yellow._--First bath, 7 lb. Naphthol black B, 1/2 lb. Fast yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath 3 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Black and Pink._--Black as above. Pink with Diamine rose B D (see above).
_Green and Buff._--First bath, 1/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Fast yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Orange and Violet._--First bath, 9 oz. Orange extra, and 10 lb.
bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine violet N, and 10 lb.
Glauber's salt.
_Black and Blue._--First bath, Naphthol black as given above. Second bath, Diamine sky blue as given above.
_Black and Yellow._--Add first 1 lb. Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb.
Glauber's salt, then, when the wool has been dyed, add 2 lb. Curcumine S to dye the cotton in the same bath.
_Green and Red._--Dye the wool by using 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb.
Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then add to the bath 3/4 lb. Erika B N, and 3/4 lb. Congo Corinth G.
_Orange and Blue._--Dye the wool first with 1-1/4 lb. Mandarine G, 2 oz.
Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with 2 lb.
Columbia blue G.
_Blue and Orange._--Dye the wool first with 3/4 lb. Guinea violet B, 3/4 lb. Guinea green B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton with 2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O.
_Green and Orange._--Dye the wool with 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb.
Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the same bath with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O.
CHAPTER VI.
DYEING HALF SILK (COTTON-SILK, SATIN) FABRICS.
The direct dyes of the Diamine, Benzo and Congo types have been of late years increasingly used for dyeing satin (silk and cotton), and they have quite displaced the old methods of dyeing this class of fabrics, which consisted in first dyeing the silk with an acid dye and then dyeing the cotton with a basic dye. For details of the method of applying acid dyes to silk reference may be made to Mr. G.H. Hurst's book on _Silk Dyeing_.
Most of the direct colours are exceedingly well adapted for this purpose, some under certain conditions possess the property of dyeing the cotton a deeper shade than the silk, which is an advantage rather than otherwise.
The dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton is generally done in winch dye-vats, in some cases also on the jigger.
METHOD OF DYEING.
The direct colours are as a rule dyed in a soap-bath with addition of phosphate of soda, Glauber's salt or common salt and a little soda.
The addition of these salts effects a better exhaustion of the baths; they are therefore principally used for dark and full shades, whilst pale shades are dyed with the addition of soap only or in combination with phosphate of soda. Dark or pale shades may thus be produced at will by selecting the proper additions, but the fact should not be overlooked that the greater exhaustion of the baths not only increases the depth of shade of the cotton but also causes the silk to absorb more dye-stuff. Too large a proportion of salt would cause the dye-stuffs to go on the fibre too quickly and thus make the dyeing liable to turn out uneven.
A large proportion of soap counteracts the effects of the salts, causing the dye-stuff to go on less quickly and tending to leave the silk lighter than the cotton, in some cases even almost white, a property which is valuable in many cases, especially as enabling the silk and cotton to be dyed in different colours to obtain shot effects.
It is thus obvious that a general method applicable in all cases cannot be given; it will vary according to the effect desired, and partly also depend on the material to be dyed.
The following particulars may serve as a guide for the first bath:--
For pale shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor should contain 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap and 4 to 7 drs. soda or 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 5-1/2 drs. soda and 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of soda.
For medium and dark shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor may contain 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 7 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of soda and 6-1/2 to 13 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt.
For two coloured effects or dyeings, in which the silk is intended to remain as pale as possible or even white, each 10 gallons dye-liquor may contain 4-3/4 to 8 oz. soap, 4 to 6 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 8 oz. phosphate of soda and 4-3/4 to 9-1/2 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt.
The temperature of the dye-baths is generally 175 to 195 F.; in practical dyeing it is usual to boil up the fully charged dye-bath, shut off the steam, enter the goods and dye for about three-quarters of an hour.
For obtaining level dyeings in pale shades it is advisable not to enter the goods too hot, but to raise the temperature gradually. Raising the temperature, or dyeing for some time at the boil will deepen the shade of the cotton, but at the same time will have the same effect on the silk which may sometimes be an advantage when dyeing dark shades.
As a complete exhaustion of the baths does not take place, especially when dyeing dark shades, it is advantageous, nay, even imperative, to preserve the baths for further use, they are then replenished with only about three-fourths of the quantities of dye-stuffs used for the first bath, of the soap only about one fourth, of Glauber's salt, soda and phosphate of soda only about one-fifth, of the first quantities are necessary.
The first bath should be prepared with condensed water. If none is at hand ordinary water should be boiled up with soda and soap and the scum removed. Clear soap baths are absolutely necessary for the production of pure shades and clean pieces.