_Dark Russian Green._--Dye with 3 lb. Columbia black B; then top with 1 lb. Malachite green.
_Gold Drab._--Dye with 5 oz. Columbia black, and top with 5 oz.
Chrysoidine R.
_Bright Olive Yellow._--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/2 lb.
Diamine fast yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb.
Thioflavine T and 1/4 lb. Chrysoidine.
_Moss Brown._--Dye with 1 oz. Diamine brown M, 6 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 1 oz. new Methylene blue N and 4 oz. Orange G G.
_Dark Sea Green_--Dye a bottom with 9 oz. Diamine black B and 4-1/2 oz.
Diamine fast yellow B, then top with 2 oz. New methylene blue M and 2 oz. New phosphine G.
_Old Gold._--Dye a ground with 1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, and 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 8 oz.
Thioflavine T, 1 oz. Indian yellow R and 1 oz. Brilliant green.
_Cornflower Blue._--Dye the ground with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 B, 1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 3 B, 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O, and top with 1 oz. Metaphenylene blue B, 2 oz. New methylene blue R and 1 oz.
Indigo blue N.
_Slate._--Dye with 7 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 1 oz. Aniline grey B and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.
_Pale Drab._--Dye the ground with 1 oz. Diamine orange G C, 3/4 oz.
Diamine bronze G and 1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 3/4 oz. New methylene blue N, 1 oz. Bismarck brown and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.
_Deep Leaf Green._--Dye a ground colour with 1-1/4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black H W; the topping bath is made with 1/2 lb. Brilliant green, 1/2 lb. Chrysoidine and 1/4 lb. New methylene blue N.
_Maroon._--Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C and 1/2 lb. Diamine brown V; top with 1/2 lb. Magenta and 1/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.
_Heliotrope._--Dye with 1 lb. Heliotrope 2 B.
_Lilac Rose._--Dye with 8 lb. Columbia black R and 1 lb. Alkali blue B; after dyeing pass through a weak acetic acid bath, then wash well.
_Pea Green._--Dye with 2 lb. Chrysophenine, 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B and 1 lb. Alkali blue 6 B; pass, after dyeing, through a weak acetic acid bath, then wash well.
_Dark Drab._--Dye with 1/4 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb. Orange G G and 1/2 lb. Cyanole extra.
_Deep Rose._--Dye the bottom colour with 1/2 lb. Diamine rose B D and top with 1/4 lb. Rhodamine B and 1 oz. Safranine.
_Walnut Brown._--Dye the bottom colour with 1 lb. Oxydiamine black D, 1 lb. Diamine brown M and 1 lb. Oxydiamine violet B; the topping is done with 4 oz. Safranine, 2 oz. New methylene blue N and 2 oz. Chrysoidine.
=Dyeing of Plain Black.=--Diamine blacks find a very extensive application for dyeing blacks on satin, either dyed direct in one bath, or dyed, diazotised and developed.
Union black S and Oxydiamine black D are particularly suitable for direct blacks, and are used either alone or in a combination with Diamine jet black S S, which produces a better covering of the silk, or with Oxydiamine black S O O O, which deepens the shade of the cotton.
According to the shade required Diamine fast yellow A and B, Diamine green B or G, or Alkaline blue may be used for shading.
Dye for about one hour at about 175 to 195 F. in as concentrated a bath as possible, with about 7 to 8 lb. dye per 100 lb. of satin, 8 to 16 oz. Glauber's salt and 5 to 8 oz. soap per 10 gallons dye liquor; keep cool in the bath for some time and rinse.
The raising is either done in a tepid soap bath with the addition of some new methylene blue, or in an acid bath to which Naphthol, blue black, Acid green, etc., is added for shading the silk.
Direct dyed blacks are especially suitable for cheap goods (ribbons, light linings, etc.), for which special fastness to water is not required; also for tram and tussar silk plushes, which are afterwards topped with logwood.
If greater fastness is required, and more especially if it is a case of replacing aniline black, Diaminogene diazotised and developed is a good dye-stuff. It is extensively used for dyeing umbrella cloths and linings. Against aniline black it has the great advantage of not tendering the fibre in the least, and not turning green during storage.
Diaminogene B and Diaminogene extra are mostly used for this purpose, the former for jet blacks, the latter for blue-black shades.
Proceed as follows: Enter the boiled off and acidulated goods in a boiling bath as concentrated as possible, charged with 16 oz. Glauber's salt per 10 gallons liquor, and 1 lb. acetic acid per 100 lb. dry goods.
For jet black add for 100 lb. satin, 6 to 8 lb. Diaminogene, 1 to 2 lb.
Naphthylamine black D, 1/2 to 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A or Diamine green B; for very deep shades about 1/5 of the quantity of Diaminogene B may be replaced with Diamine jet black S S. For blue black, 6 to 8 lb.
Diaminogene B, or 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene B, and 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene extra. Dye for three-quarters to one hour at the boil, allow to cool in the bath for about thirty minutes, then rinse, diazotise and develop.
Phenylene diamine (93 per cent.) serves for developing jet blacks mixed with resorcine for greenish shades. Beta-naphthol is used for blue blacks (1 lb. 5 oz. per 100 lb. of dry material, dissolved in its own weight of soda lye, 75 Tw.). The three developers may also be mixed with each other in any proportions.
After developing soap hot with addition of new methylene blue, by choosing a reddish or a bluish brand of new methylene, blue and black may be shaded at will in the soap bath; finally rinse and raise with acetic acid.
If properly carried out this process will give a black almost equal to aniline black; but having, as already mentioned, the advantage of not impairing the strength of the fibre, and not turning green during storage.
As the dye-baths for blacks are charged with a proportionately high percentage of dye-stuff for the first bath, and will not exhaust completely, it is advisable to preserve them for further use.
For subsequent lots only two-thirds to three-fourths of the quantities of dye-stuffs used for the first baths are required, which fact has to be taken into consideration when calculating the cost of dyeing.
=Dyeing Shot Effects on Satin.=--Not all direct colours are equally well adapted for the production of shot effects; those enumerated in Group I. are most suitable for the purpose, and should be dyed with a larger quantity of soap than is usual for solid shades, in order to leave the silk as little tinted as possible. Dye-stuffs of the other groups may be used if the dyeing is conducted with proper care, _i.e._, keeping the baths more alkaline and lowering the temperature. The goods are dyed with the addition for the two coloured effects previously mentioned, then they are well rinsed, and afterwards the silk is dyed with the suitable acid dye-stuffs, with addition of sulphuric acid at a temperature of about 150 F. Care should be taken not to use too much acid, and to keep the temperature of the bath sufficiently low, as otherwise the acid may cause some of the dye-stuff to go off the cotton and tint the silk. It is best to work at a temperature of about 150 F., with addition of about 3 oz. concentrated sulphuric acid per 10 gallons dye-liquor.
For shading the silk all acid dye-stuffs can be used which have been mentioned in the foregoing tables.
If in shot effects the cotton is to be dyed bright and full shades, this is best achieved by dyeing with direct colours first, and then topping with basic colours as follows:--
Bottom the cotton first with the suitable direct colours, then dye the silk and then treat the pieces for about two hours in a cold tannin bath (about 8 oz. tannin per 10 gallons of water), then rinse once and pass through a tartar emetic bath (about 3 oz. per 10 gallons), rinse thoroughly and dye the cotton to shade with basic colours in a cold bath to which some acetic acid has been added.
Should the silk become a little dull after this process, this may be remedied by a slight soaping. After dyeing rinse well and raise with acetic acid.
=Shot Effects with Black Cotton Warp.=--Effects much in favour are designs composed of black cotton and light or coloured silk. The most suitable black dye for this purpose is Diamine black B H, diazotised and developed.
Dye in as concentrated a bath as possible at about 160 F. with about 6 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, pat., per 100 lb. of dry goods, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C, pat., with an addition of 6-1/2 oz.
soap, 4 to 5 dr. soda per 10 gallons liquor, 16 oz. Glauber's salt.
After dyeing rinse well in a bath containing 6 dr. soda and 3 oz. soap per 10 gallons water, diazotised in a fresh bath with 4 lb. nitrite of soda and 12 lb. hydrochloric acid (per 100 lb. of dry goods), rinse thoroughly and develop with 3 to 16 oz. phenylene diamine (93 per cent.), with addition of 1 to 2 lb. soda. These two operations should follow each other as quickly as possible, also care has to be taken that the diazotised goods are not exposed to direct sunlight or heat, which causes unlevel dyeings. The silk is then cleaned as far as possible by hot soaping, and dyed at about 120 to 140 F., with acid dye-stuffs and the addition of sulphuric acid. After dyeing rinse as usual and brighten.
_Yellow and Violet,_--Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, the silk with 1 lb. Cyanole extra, and 1 lb. Forinyl violet S 4 B.
_Black and Blue._--Dye the cotton with 5 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb.
Diamine sky blue, and 1/4 lb. Diamine orange D C. After dyeing, diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine as described above. Then dye the silk with 1/2 lb. Pure soluble blue and 1 lb. Cyanole extra.
_Black and Crimson._--Dye the black as in the previous recipe, then dye the silk with 2 lb. Brilliant croceine 3 B and 1/2 lb. Rhodamine S.
_Blue and Gold._--Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and the silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S.
_Dark Blue and Green._--Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black B H, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 R; the silk with 2 lb. Naphthol yellow S and 1 lb. New methylene blue G G.
_Violet and Yellow._--Dye the cotton with 2 oz. Diamine violet N and the silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S.