_Dark Sage._--A good shade is dyed with 1 lb. Diamine orange B, 6-1/2 oz. Union black, 1-3/4 oz. Diamine brown M, 3-1/4 oz. azo red A and 2-1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Navy Blue._--Use 2 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1-1/4 lb. Lanacyl violet B, and 7 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Bronze Green._--A good shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine orange B, 5 oz.
Diamine brown N, 3/4 lb. Union black S, 1 lb. Indian yellow G and 2-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Black._--Use 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M and 1-1/2 lb.
Naphthylamine black 6 B. Another recipe, 2-1/4 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 1 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Orange E N Z and 2 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Dark Brown._--Use 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 15-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M, 1-3/4 lb. Indian yellow G and 2-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.
Another combination, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 1-1/2 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian yellow G and 5 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Scarlet._--3 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 3/4 oz. Ponceau 3 R B and 1/2 lb.
Curcumine S.
_Crimson._--1/2 lb. Congo Corinth G, 2 lb. Benzo purpurine 10 B and 1/2 lb. Curcumine S.
_Bright Blue._--2 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 3 oz. Alkali blue 6 B, 1-1/2 oz.
Zambesi blue R X. After dyeing rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz.
sulphuric acid in 10 gallons of water, then rinse well.
_Dark Blue._--2-1/2 lb. Columbia fast blue 2 G, 3 oz. Sulphon azurine D, 8 oz. Alkali blue 6 B. After dyeing rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz.
sulphuric acid in 20 gallons of water.
_Orange._--9 oz. Congo brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O and 1-1/2 oz. Mandarine G.
_Dark Green._--2 lb. Columbia green, 1/2 lb. Sulphon azurine D, 1 lb.
Zambesi blue B X, 1-1/2 oz. Curcumine S.
_Black._--4 lb. Columbia black F B and 2 lb. Wool black 6 B.
_Pale Sage Green._--5 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 lb. Chrysophenine G and 1-1/2 lb. Curcumine S.
_Slate._--1/2 lb. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Zambesi blue R X, 1/2 oz.
Mikado orange 4 R 0 and 1-1/2 oz. Acid violet 6 B.
_Dark Grey._--1 lb. Columbia black F B, 3 oz. Zambesi black B and 3/4 oz. Sulphon azurine D.
_Drab._--1-1/2 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1/4 oz.
Curcumine extra and 3 oz. Mikado orange 4 R O.
_Brown._--5 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1-1/2 oz.
Orange T A and 2 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0.
_Nut Brown._--3/4 lb. Congo brown G, 1/4 lb. Chicago blue R W and 3/4 lb. Mikado orange 4 R 0.
_Dark Brown._--1 lb. Congo brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 1-1/2 lb. Zambesi black F and 1/2 lb. Wool black 6 B.
_Stone._--1 oz. Zambesi black D, 1/4 oz. Mandarine G, 1/4 oz. Curcumine extra and 1-1/4 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0.
_Slate Green._--3 oz. Zambesi black D, 1-1/2 oz. Guinea green B.
_Sage Brown._--1/2 lb. Zambesi black D, 1-1/2 oz. Mandarine G extra, 3 oz. Curcumine extra, 3 oz. Acid violet 6 B, 6 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0 and 4-1/2 oz. Curcumine S.
_Cornflower Blue._--3 oz. Chicago blue 4 R, 1/4 lb. Zambesi blue R X, 1/4 lb. Acid violet 6 B and 3/4 oz. Zambesi brown G.
_Dark Brown._--1-1/2 lb. Brilliant orange G, 1/2 lb. Orange T A, 1 lb.
Columbia black F B and 1/4 lb. Wool black 6 B.
_Dark Blue._--2 lb. Chicago blue W, 1 lb. Zambesi blue R X, 1/2 lb.
Columbia black F B, 10 oz. Guinea green B and 1/2 lb. Guinea violet 4 B.
The Janus dyes may be used for the dyeing of half wool (union) fabrics.
The best plan of working is to prepare a bath with 5 lb. of sulphate of zinc; in this the goods are worked at the boil for five minutes, then there is added the dyes previously dissolved in water, and the working continued for a quarter of an hour; there is then added 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and the working at the boil continued for one hour, at the end of which time the dye-bath will be fairly well exhausted of colour. The goods are now taken out and put into a fixing-bath of sumac or tannin, in which they are treated for fifteen minutes; to this same bath there is next added tartar emetic and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and the working continued for a quarter of an hour, then the bath is heated to 160 F., when the goods are lifted, rinsed and dried. In the recipes the quantities of the dyes, sumac or tannin and tartar emetic are given only, the other ingredients and processes are the same in all.
_Dark Blue._--2-1/4 lb. Janus dark blue B and 1/4 lb. Janus green B in the dye-bath, and 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Blue Black._--3-1/2 lb. Janus black I and 1/2 lb. Janus black II in the dye-bath, and 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Dark Brown._--2-1/2 lb. Janus brown B, 1 lb. Janus black I, 3-1/2 oz.
Janus yellow G and 5 oz. Janus red B in the dye-bath, with 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Drab._--1-1/2 oz. Janus yellow R, 3/4 oz. Janus red B, 1 oz. Janus blue R and 1/4 oz. Janus grey B B in the dye-bath, and 4 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Grey._--5 oz. Janus blue R, 3-1/4 oz. Janus grey B, 1-1/2 oz. Janus yellow R and 1/4 oz. Janus red B in the dye-bath, with 4 lb. sumach extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Nut Brown._--1 lb. Janus brown R, 8 oz. Janus yellow R and 1-1/2 oz.
Janus blue B in the dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Walnut Brown._--3 lb. Janus brown B, 1 lb. Janus red B, 1 lb. Janus yellow R, 1-1/4 oz. Janus green B in the dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Crimson._--2-1/2 lb. Janus red B and 8 oz. Janus claret red B in the dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Dark Green._--1-1/2 lb. Janus green B, 1-1/2 lb. Janus yellow R and 8 oz. Janus grey B B in the dye-bath, with 12 lb. sumac extract and 1-1/4 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
_Chestnut Brown._--1 lb. Janus brown R and 1 lb. Janus yellow R in the dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.
Before the introduction of the direct dyes the method usually followed, and, indeed still used to a great extent, is that known as cross dyeing.
The goods were woven with dyed cotton threads of the required shade, and undyed woollen threads. After weaving and cleansing the woollen part of the fabric was dyed with acid dyes, such as Acid magenta, Scarlet R, Acid yellow, etc. In such methods care has to be taken that the dyes used for dyeing the cotton are such as stand acids, a by no means easy condition to fulfil at one time. Many of the direct dyes are fast to acids and, therefore, lend themselves more or less readily to cross dyeing. For details of the dyes for cotton reference may be made to the sections on dyeing with the direct colours, page 85, etc., while information as to methods of dyeing the wool will be found in the companion volume to this on _Dyeing of Woollen Fabrics_.
=Shot Effects.=--A pleasing kind of textile fabric which is now made, and is a great favourite for ladies' dress goods, is where the cotton of a mixed fabric is thrown up to form a figured design. It is possible to dye the two fibres in different colours, and so produce a variety of shot effects. These latter are so endless that it is impossible here to enumerate all that may be produced. It will have to suffice to lay down the lines which may be followed to the best advantage, and then give some recipes to illustrate the remarks that have been made. The best plan for the production of shot effects upon union fabrics is to take advantage of the property of certain acid dyes which dye only the wool in an acid bath, and of many of the direct colours which will only dye the cotton in an alkaline bath. The process, working on these lines, becomes as follows: The wool is first dyed in an acid bath with the addition of Glauber's salt and bisulphate of soda, or sulphuric acid, the goods are then washed with water containing a little ammonia to free them from the acid, and afterwards dyed with the direct colour in an alkaline bath.
Fancy or the mode shades are obtained by combining suitable dye-stuffs.
If the cotton is to be dyed in light shades it is advantageous to dye on the liquor at 65 to 80 F., with the addition of 3-1/4 oz. Glauber's salt, and from 20 to 40 grains borax per gallon water. The addition of an alkali is advisable in order to neutralise any slight quantities of acid which may have remained in the wool, and to prevent the dye-stuff from dyeing the cotton too deep a shade.
Very light shades can also be done on the padding machine. The dye-stuffs of Group II., which have been previously enumerated, do not stain the wool at all, or only very slightly, and are, therefore, the most suitable. Less bright effects can be produced by simply dyeing the goods in one bath. The wool is first dyed at the boil with the respective wool dye-stuff in a neutral bath, the steam is then shut off and the cotton dyed by adding the cotton dye-stuff to the bath, and dyeing without again heating. By passing the goods through cold water to which some sulphuric or acetic acid is added, the brightness of most effects is greatly increased.
_Gold and Green._--First bath, 1 lb. Cyanole extra, 7-1/4 oz. Acid green, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda; work at the boil for one hour, then lift and rinse well. Second bath, 4 lb. Diamine orange G and 15 lb. Glauber's salt; work in the cold or at a lukewarm heat. Third bath, at 120 F., 4 oz. Chrysoidine and 1/4 oz. Safranine.