The mode of working is rather influenced by the character of the goods, and the following notes will be found useful by the union dyer:--
Very little difficulty will be met with in dyeing such light fabrics as Italians, cashmere, serges and similar thin textiles lightly woven from cotton warp and woollen weft. When deep shades (blacks, dark blues, browns and greens), are being dyed it is not advisable to make up the dye-bath with the whole of the dyes at once. It is much better to add these in quantities of about one-fourth at a time at intervals during the dyeing of the piece. It is found that the affinity of the wool for the dyes at the boil is so much greater than is that of the cotton that it would, if the whole of the dye were used, take up too much of the colour, and then would come up too deep in shade. Never give a strong boil with such fabrics, but keep the bath just under the boil, which results in the wool dyeing much more nearly like to cotton.
_Bright Yellow._--Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S in a bath which contains 4 lb.
Glauber's salt per 10 gallons of dye liquor.
_Good Yellow._--A very fine deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine gold and 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, in the same way as the last.
Here advantage is taken of the fact that while the Diamine gold dyes the wool better than the cotton, the yellow dyes the cotton the deeper shade, and between the two a uniform shade of yellow is got.
_Pale Gold Yellow._--Use a dye liquor containing 4 lb. Glauber's salt in every 10 gallons, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 2 oz. Indian yellow G and 3-1/2 oz. Indian yellow R. In this recipe there is used in the two last dyes purely wool yellows, which dye the wool the same tint as the fast yellow A dyes the cotton.
_Bright Yellow._--Use in the same way as the last, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B and 3 oz. Indian yellow G.
_Gold Orange._--Use as above 2 lb. Diamine orange G, 5-1/2 oz. Indian yellow K and 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z.
_Deep Orange._--Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C, 6-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, and 3-1/4 oz. Indian yellow R.
_Black._--Use 4-1/2 lb. Union black S, 2 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 5 oz. Naphthol blue black and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B, with 4 lb.
Glauber's salt in each 10 gallons dye liquor.
_Navy Blue._--Use 1-1/4 lb. Union black S, 3 lb. Diamine black B H, 1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black, 1/2 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B and 2-1/2 oz.
alkaline blue B.
_Red Plum._--Use a dye-bath containing 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.
_Dark Green._--A fine shade can be dyed in a bath containing 3 lb.
Diamine green B and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black H W.
_Dark Slate._--Use 4 lb. Diamine black H W, 2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 3 oz. Azo red A.
_Sage._--Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Diamine bronze G and 1-1/4 oz.
Naphthol blue black.
_Dark Brown._--A fine dark shade is got from 2-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V and 2 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Peacock Green._--Use 3-3/4 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 13 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine K and 2-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G in a bath of 4 lb. Glauber's salt per gallon dye liquor.
_Dark Sea Green._--Use 9 oz. Diamine steel blue L, 3-3/4 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 1/2 oz. Diamine orange G, 1-1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and 3/4 oz. Indian yellow G.
_Dark Brown._--Use 1 lb. Diamine orange B, 1 lb. Diamine Fast yellow S, 13-3/4 oz. Union black S, 1 lb. Diamine brown M and 1/2 lb. Indian yellow G. Fix in an alum bath after dyeing.
_Dark Stone._--Use 1/2 lb. Diamine orange B, 3-3/4 oz. Union black, 1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 1-1/2 oz. Azo red A and 3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Black._--A very fine black can be got from 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 2 lb. Union black S, 9-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.
_Dark Grey._--A fine bluish shade of grey is got from 7 oz. Diamine black B H, 2-1/4 oz. Diamine orange G, 2-1/2 oz. Diamine orange G, 2-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1 oz. Orange E N Z.
_Dark Blue._--A fine shade is got by using 2 lb. Diamine black B H, 1/2 lb. Diamine black H W, and 3-1/2 oz. Alkaline blue 6 B.
_Drab._--Use 3-1/2 oz. Diamine orange B, 3/4 oz. Union black, 1/8 oz.
Diamine Bordeaux B, 3/4 oz. Azo red A and 1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.
_Plum._--Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine violet N, 9-1/2 oz. Union black and 1 lb.
Formyl violet S 4 B.
_Bright Yellow._--Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Thioflavine S, 2 lb.
Naphthol yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid.
_Pink._--Use 1/6 oz. Diamine Rose B D, 1/4 oz. Diamine scarlet B, 1/2 oz. Rhodamine B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Scarlet._--A fine shade is got from 1-1/2 lb. Diamine scarlet B, 1/2 oz. Diamine red 5 B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.
_Orange._--Use a dye-bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Diamine orange G, 14-1/2 oz. Tropaeoline O O, and 2-3/4 oz. Orange extra.
_Sky Blue._--Use 1-1/2 oz. Diamine sky blue and 1-1/4 oz. Alkaline blue B.
_Bright Blue._--A fine shade similar to that formerly known as royal blue is got by using 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G and 9-1/4 oz.
Alkaline blue 6 B.
_Maroon._--Use 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux B, 2 lb. Diamine violet N and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.
_Green._--A fine green similar in shade to that used for billiard-table cloth is got from 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine R and 7-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G.
_Gold Brown_--A fine brown is got from 3 lb. Diamine orange B, 1/2 lb.
Union black, 2-1/2 oz. Diamine brown, 3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1/2 lb. Indian yellow G.
_Navy Blue._--Use 3-1/4 lb. Diamine black B H, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G and 1/2 lb. Alkaline blue.
_Fawn Drab._--A fine shade is got by dyeing in a bath containing 6-3/4 oz. Diamine orange B, 1-3/4 lb. Union black, 1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black, 1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B and 1 oz. Azo red A.
In all these colours the dye-baths contain Glauber's salt at the rate of 4 lb. per 10 gallons.
_Dark Brown._--2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange B, 13 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1-3/4 lb. Union black and 3-1/2 oz.
Naphthol black.
_Drab._--1-3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow R, 3-1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 2-1/2 oz. Union black, 1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G.
_Dark Blue._--Use in the dye-bath 4-1/4 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 3/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B and 5 oz.
Naphthol blue black.
_Blue Black-_--Use 3-1/2 lb. Union black S, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 6-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.
_Dark Walnut._--2-3/4 lb. Diamine brown M, 1-1/2 lb. Union black S, and 11-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G.
_Peacock Green._--Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine black H W, 5-1/6 oz.
Diamine fast yellow B, 1-1/4 lb. Thiocarmine R and 1-1/6 oz. Indian yellow G.
_Slate Blue._--Use in the dye-bath 6-1/2 oz. Diamine carechine B, 4-3/4 oz. Diamine orange B, 2-1/2 oz. Union black, 2-3/4 oz. Orange E N Z, and 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.