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6 cloves garlic, chopped

COMBINE THE beans, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl to get everything.

Preheat a small pan over low heat. Cook the garlic in the olive oil for about 3 minutes. You want just to gently heat it, not brown it.

Add the garlic and oil to the mixture in the blender and puree. Taste for salt, pepper, and lemon, and adjust to your liking.

Transfer to a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

CHESTNUT-LENTIL PTe.

MAKES OVER 2 CUPS.

TIME: 50 MINUTES (MOSTLY INACTIVE), PLUS CHILL TIME.

For dip sophisticates, this pate has a deep, complex flavor, made woodsy and slightly sweet from the roasted chestnuts. This dip tastes especially good on melba toast or some such type of cracker. Make a few extra roasted chestnuts just for nibbling on, because you're going to want to.

1 pound whole chestnuts

cup French lentils, sorted, rinsed, and drained

2 cloves garlic, crushed, crushed

2 cups water (for the lentils), plus to 1 cup (for blending)

cup grapeseed oil

teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves

whole nutmeg, or teaspoon ground

TO ROAST the chestnuts: Preheat the oven to 425F. Slice a little slit in the shell of each chestnut to prevent them from exploding in the heat. Place the chestnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and place in a kitchen towel. Let cool a bit and then bunch the edges of the towel together, tightly wrapping the chestnuts and crushing them to loosen their shells. Open the towel and peel the shells from chestnuts.

Meanwhile, prepare the lentils: Place them in a small pot with the 2 cups of water and the crushed garlic. Cover, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes, until all or most of the water is absorbed and the lentils are very tender.

Remove as much of the garlic as you can from the lentils. Place the lentils in the food processor or blender, along with the chestnuts. Blend a bit, adding cup of water until relatively smooth. Add the oil, salt, and parsley, and blend again. If the mixture seems too thick, add up to another cup of water. It should be thicker than the consistency of hummus, but not by much.

Place in a covered bowl and chill for at least an hour.

Serving suggestions: Toast thin slices of French bread. Spread with a few tablespoons of pate, then place a slice of tomato on top. Sprinkle very lightly with salt and garnish with parsley.

CREAMY KALAMATA SPREAD.

MAKES 2 CUPS.

TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS CHILL TIME.

Piquant cold as a spread for sammiches or as a dip for veggies and pitas. This spread is very potent and olive-y, so for serious olive lovers only.

1 tablespoon olive oil

cup onion, chopped coarsely

3 cloves garlic, chopped

teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 cup tightly packed pitted kalamata olives, chopped coarsely

cup dry red wine

pound soft (not silken) tofu

2- 4 tablespoons water

PREHEAT A small saucepan over medium-high heat. Saute the onions in the oil for 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes; cook for 1 more minute. Add the olives and red wine, and cook until the wine has reduced, about 5 more minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Crumble the tofu into a blender and puree with just enough water to get things going (no more than 4 tablespoons). Add the olive mixture and puree until very smooth, scraping down the sides of the blender with a spatula. The dip should be the consistency of Vegenaise.

Place in a tightly sealed container and chill for at least half an hour or until ready to use.

WALNUT-MUSHROOM PTe.

MAKES OVER 2 CUPS.

TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS CHILLING TIME.

Our friend Paula brought this classy pate to a New Year's Eve party and we seriously couldn't stop freaking out due to its lush texture and complex, savory flavor. It's delightfully rich and satisfying spread on thick, crusty bread or crisp wheat crackers. This dip is elegant enough to serve piled high in fancy dish for a cocktail party, or just tucked into pita with salad greens for a fantastic lunch or light dinner during warm summer nights.

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup diced yellow onion

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

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