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Punch down the dough, return it to the floured surface, and knead a few times. Then, using a floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a large circle about 1 inches thick. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased cookie sheet. Poke several holes into the dough with a fork, sprinkle with coarse salt and rosemary leaves, and brush with a little oil (or even soy milk, for a matte finish). Cover again with dish towel and let rise for 20 minutes.

While the dough is rising for the second time, preheat the oven to 350F. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes until the bread is lightly browned and firm. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes before slicing.

POPPY SEED-CORNMEAL ROTI.

MAKES 8 SMALL ROTI.

TIME: 30 MINUTES.

Tasty alongside either East or West Indian cuisine, these little roti are not nearly as big as traditional the West Indian-style flatbread but still a good size for dipping and scooping chunky stews. The addition of poppy seeds makes them crunchy, munchy good, and leftovers are fabulous for breakfast. Rolling and folding the dough maybe gets a little tedious, but with practice you can have soft, flaky," buttery" flatbread in under 30 minutes. Make these while that curry or soup is simmering on the stove.

For even more tender roti, use 1 cups whole wheat pastry flour and 1 cups regular whole wheat flour for the dough. As a variation, add cup pepitas (pumpkin seeds) to the dough while kneading.

Roti dough: 3 cups whole wheat flour

cup cornmeal

2 tablespoons poppy seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon salt

1 cups warm water

Crumbs: cup whole wheat pastry flour

cup cornmeal

2 tablespoons corn or peanut oil, plus additional oil for brushing

teaspoon salt

Prepare the dough: In a large bowl, combine the whole wheat flour, cornmeal, poppy and cumin seeds, and salt. Stir in the water and mix to form a soft dough. Knead the dough in the bowl for 5 to 6 minutes; the dough will be soft and slightly moist. If the dough is very sticky, knead in a little extra flour, 1 tablespoon at a time. Coat the dough in a little oil by pouring a tablespoon of oil onto the dough and turning it several times in the bowl. Cover with a damp, clean dish towel and let it rest for at least 10 minutes.

In a small separate bowl, make the crumbs: Combine the flour, cornmeal, oil, and salt. Mix with fingers or a fork until a dry, crumbly mixture forms.

After the dough has rested, divide into six to eight balls on a surface dusted with flour. Flatten a ball into as thin a circle as possible and brush with oil. Fold the circle in half, brush with more oil, and fold again. Stretch the folded circle into a round shape, roll it out again into a flat circle, and brush with more oil. This time, sprinkle on some crumbs. Repeat folding in half, brushing with oil, and sprinkling with crumbs. Then fold it in half again and pull and roll one last time into a thin round.

Repeat with the remaining dough. Be sure to sprinkle extra flour on top of the dough circles when stacking, or use pieces of waxed paper to separate.

Preheat a cast-iron pan or heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet over medium heat. Gently place a dough circle on the hot pan and bake on each side for 3 to 4 minutes, using tongs or a large wooden spatula to turn it. The dough will bubble and brown spots will form; pressing down on cooked parts of the roti can cause bubbles to grow. Stack the cooked roti on top of one another and keep warm by wrapping in a clean, damp dish towel until ready to serve.

To reheat wrap tightly in foil for conventional ovens or wrap in damp paper towels for a microwave.

SCALLION FLATBREAD.

MAKES 8 FLATBREADS.

TIME: 30 MINUTES.

This savory flatbread is a little like the love child between a flaky paratha (Indian grilled buttery flatbread) and a scallion pancake. Instead of deep-frying, we grill it on an iron skillet and serve with a sharp and savory soy dipping sauce. Include these in any Asian meal as an appetizer, in place of rice or as a side with thick curries.

If you've already cut your teeth on making the Poppy Seed-Cornmeal Roti (page 221), then you know the deal with folding and rolling flatbread. If not, well then, what are you waiting for? Here's a good place to start.

Flatbread: 1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

5 scallions, green parts only, sliced into -inch lengths

cup warm water

cup additional peanut oil for brushing

Dipping sauce: 3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

teaspoon finely grated ginger (use a microplane grater; it should resemble almost pureed ginger)

1 teaspoon sesame seeds, lightly crushed or left whole

IN A large bowl, sift together the flours, sugar, and salt. Pour in the peanut and sesame oils, and mix until slightly crumbly. Add the chopped scallions and stir in cup of the warm water, then add the remaining water 1 tablespoon at a time until a soft, nonsticky dough forms (add more water very gradually if necessary).

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface, kneading until smooth. Roll the dough into a thick rope and slice into eight equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Pour about a tablespoon of peanut oil into the bowl where you made the dough and coat each ball with oil. Leave them in the bowl and cover with a clean, slightly damp dish towel. Allow the dough to rest for at least 10 minutes before proceeding.

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