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teaspoon ground coriander

Several pinches of freshly ground black pepper

cup molasses

2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon liquid smoke

IN A small saucepan over medium-high heat, saute the onions in oil for 7 to 10 minutes, until browned. Add the garlic, saute for 2 more minutes. Add the vegetable broth to deglaze the pan. Add the apricots, black pepper, ginger, and coriander. Cover and bring to a boil. Once the sauce is boiling, lower the heat to medium-low and let cook for about 10 minutes, until the apricots are mushy.

Uncover and add the remaining ingredients. Cook for about 10 more minutes, stirring often and mashing the apricot as you stir. Taste the sauce and adjust the sweetness, if necessary.

Remove from the heat and let cool until it's not steaming, stirring occasionally to speed up the cooling. Transfer to a blender or food processor and puree until completely smooth. Keep refrigerated in an airtight container until ready to use.

HORSERADISH-DILL SOUR CREAM.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS.

TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS TIME TO CHILL.

This is our cream of choice for latkes both of the potato persuasion and the beet kind (see Autumn Latkes, page 53). It also makes a wonderful dressing, especially for cucumbers.We used fresh horseradish but if you can only find the jarred kind, go ahead and use it. Since it's stronger than fresh, add a tablespoon at first and taste from there.

1 pound soft tofu

2 tablespoons fresh, grated horseradish

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon agave or real maple syrup

teaspoons salt

3 cloves garlic, crushed

cup grapeseed oil

1 cup loosely packed fresh dill

REMOVE THE tofu from the package and shake off any excess water. Place in a blender or food processor (a food processor works better) along with the horseradish, apple cider vinegar, agave, and salt. Blend until smooth.

Preheat a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Place the crushed garlic and grapeseed oil in the pan. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes. The garlic should blondir (that means "lightly brown") but not burn. Remove the garlic from the oil and discard. Add the oil to the tofu mixture and blend again until smooth. Add the dill and horseradish, and blend until smooth-the cream will be light green with some flecks of dill. Scrape down the sides to make sure you get everything.

Taste and adjust the salt and vinegar, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and seal tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

SOUR CILANTRO CREAM.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS.

TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS TIME TO CHILL.

Here's a nice replacement for sour cream on anything where cilantro would fit in: burritos, tacos, black bean soup, you name it. It's also a yummy salad dressing and great on black bean burger (page 98).

1 pound silken tofu (not the vacuum-packed kind)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)

1 tablespoon agave syrup

teaspoons salt

3 cloves garlic, crushed

cup grapeseed oil

2 cups loosely packed fresh cilantro (stems and leaves)

REMOVE THE tofu from the package and shake off any excess water. Place in a blender or food processor (a food processor works better) along with the lime juice, agave, and salt. Blend until smooth.

Preheat a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Place the crushed garlic and grapeseed oil in the pan. Cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes. The garlic should blondir (that means "to lightly brown") but not burn. Add to the tofu mixture and blend again until smooth. Add the cilantro and, guess what? Yep, blend until smooth and light green with some flecks of dark green. Scrape down the sides to make sure you get everything.

Taste and adjust the salt and lime, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl, seal tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. It will get a little bit firmer but will still have a pourable consistency.

SALSA VERDE.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS.

TIME: 40 MINUTES.

What Mexican meal is complete without a little salsa verde? Maybe a Mexican meal using some other Mexican sauce, but that's neither here nor there. Salsa verde (green sauce to you, bub) is made with those mysterious tomatolike wonders, tomatillos. Serve chilled with chips and guacamole, or hot over enchiladas and burritos. This is a mild version, so add more jalapenos if you like it hot. Wear gloves to avoid touching the seeds, or your hands will burn all day. (If you're like us and don't have gloves, just be careful!) 10 tomatillos (husks removed), cleaned and diced

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