_Beige._--Prepare a bath with 20 lb. sumac; enter cotton at 120 F., give six turns, lift and add 1/2 lb. copperas; re-enter cotton, give four turns and wring. Prepare a fresh bath containing 2 lb. extract of fustic, 3 oz. extract of indigo; enter cotton at 120 F., give three turns, raise temperature to 140 F., and turn to shade, lift, wash and dry.
_Turkey Red._--One of the most important colours dyed on cotton is that known as Turkey red, a bright red of a bluish tone, characterised by its great fastness to light, washing, etc. Strong alkalies turn it more yellowish, but weak acids and alkalies have little action.
Into the history of the dyeing of Turkey red it is not intended to enter, those who are interested in the subject should refer to old works on dyeing; nor is it intended to speak of old methods of producing it with the aid of madder, but rather to give some of the most modern methods for dyeing it with alizarine.
Many processes differing somewhat in detail have been devised for dyeing Turkey red on cotton, and it is probable that no two Turkey-red dyers work exactly alike. It is difficult to produce the most perfect red, and a very great deal of care in carrying out the various operations is necessary to obtain it. This care and the number of operations makes Turkey red an expensive colour to dye, and so shorter methods are in use which dye a red on cotton that is cheaper, but not so brilliant or fast as a true Turkey red.
_Process_ 1.--This process is perhaps the most elaborate of all processes, but it yields a fine red. The process is applicable to cloth or yarn, although naturally the machinery used will vary to suit the different conditions of the material. Bleached yarn or cloth may be treated, although a full bleach is not necessary, but the cloth or yarn must be clean or well scoured, so that it is free from grease and other impurities.
Operation 1. Boil the cotton for six to eight hours with a carbonate of soda lye at 1 Tw. in a kier at ordinary pressure, then wash well, wring, or, better, hydro-extract.
Operation 2. First "greening": What is called the "first green liquor"
is prepared by taking 15 lb. of gallipoli oil, 3 lb. phosphate of soda and 15 lb. carbonate of soda, the liquor to stand at 2 Tw. Originally this "liquor" was made with sheep dung, but this is now omitted. The cotton is worked in this liquor, which is kept at 100 F., until it is thoroughly impregnated, then it is taken out, squeezed and dried, or in some cases piled overnight and then stoved.
Operation 3. Second green liquor. As before.
Operation 4. Third green liquor. As before.
Operation 5. A carbonate of soda liquor of 2 Tw. strength is prepared, and the cotton steeped in this until it is thoroughly impregnated, then it is wrung out and stoved. This is called "white liquor treatment".
Operation 6. Second white liquor. As before.
Operation 7. Steeping: Prepare a bath of water at 150 F., and steep for twelve hours, then wring and dry.
Operation 8. Sumacing: A liquor is made from 12 lb. sumac with water, and after straining from undissolved sumac leaves the liquor is made to stand at 2 Tw., this is kept at about a 100 F., and the cotton is well worked in it and allowed to steep for four hours, after which it is taken out and wrung.
Operation 9. Mordanting or aluming: 20 lb. of alum are dissolved in hot water, and 5 lb. of soda crystals are slowly added in order to prepare a basic alum solution; this is now made by the addition of water to stand at 8 Tw.
The sumaced cotton is worked in this bath and allowed to steep for twenty-four hours, when it is taken out and wrung. Some dyers add a little tin crystals to this bath; others add a small quantity of red liquor.
Operation 10. The dyeing: A cold bath is prepared with 10 lb. to 12 lb.
alizarine, 3 lb. sumac extract, and 2 oz. lime. The cotton is entered into the cold bath, worked from fifteen to twenty minutes so as to get it thoroughly impregnated; then the heat is slowly raised to the boil and the dyeing carried on at that heat until the full shade is obtained, which usually takes about an hour. According to the brand of alizarine used so will the shade that is obtained vary, as will be mentioned later on.
Operation 11. First clearing: The dyed cotton is placed in a boiler and boiled for four hours with 3 lb. soda crystals and 3 lb. palm oil soap, afterwards washing well.
Operation 12. Second clearing: The dyed cotton is again boiled for two hours with 2-1/2 lb. soap and 1/2 lb. tin crystals, then give a good washing and dry.
This process is a long one--indeed, some dyers by repeating some of the operations lengthen it--and it takes at least two weeks, in some cases three weeks, to carry out.
The first idea is to get the cotton thoroughly impregnated with the oil, and this oxidised to some extent on the fibre, and to this end the oil treatments are carried out. In this process experience has shown that olive oil is the best to use, although other oils have been tried from time to time. The sumacing enables the alumina to be more firmly fixed on to the cotton. The alumina combines with both the oil and the sumac, and the resulting mordant produces a better and more brilliant red with the alizarine. The clearing operations serve to remove impurities, to brighten the colour, and to more fully fix it on the cotton.
_Process_ 2.--Operation 1. The cotton is well bleached or scoured with soda in the usual way.
Operation 2. Oiling or preparing: A liquor is made from 10 lb. alizarine oil or Turkey-red oil in 10 gallons water. This oil is prepared from castor oil by a process of treatment with sulphuric acid, washing with water and neutralising with caustic soda. The cotton is thoroughly impregnated with this oil by steeping, then it is wrung out and dried.
Operation 3. Steaming: The cotton is put into a steaming cottage or continuous steaming chamber and steamed for from one to one and a half hours at about 5 lb. pressure.
Operation 4. A bath of red liquor (acetate of alumina) at 8 Tw. is prepared. Some dyers use basic alum at the same strength. In this bath the cotton is steeped at 100 F. for two hours; then it is wrung out and dried. This aluming bath can be repeated. Next it is run through a bath of chalk and water containing 2 lb. chalk in 10 gallons water. This helps to fix the alumina on the cotton. Phosphate of soda also makes a good fixing agent.
Operation 5. Dyeing: This is carried out in precisely the same way as in the other process.
Operation 6. Oiling: A second oiling is now given in a bath of 5 lb.
alizarine oil, or Turkey-red oil, in 10 gallons water, after which the cotton is dried, when it is ready for further treatment. In place of giving a second oiling after the dyeing, it is, perhaps, better to give it after the mordanting and before dyeing.
Operation 7. Clearing: The dyed cotton is cleared with soap in the same manner as the clearing operations of the first process, which see.
Any of the treatments preparatory to, and following the actual dyeing of, any of these processes may be repeated if deemed necessary. The text-books on dyeing and the technical journals devoted to the subject frequently contain accounts of methods of dyeing Turkey red, but when these come to be dissected the methods are but little more than variants of those which have just been given.
Seeing that the theory or theories involved in this rather complex process of dyeing Turkey red, and that colourists are not agreed as to the real part played by the oil, the sumac and the clearing operations in the formation of a Turkey red on cotton, nothing will be said here as to the theory of Turkey-red dyeing.
_Alizarine Red._--It is possible to dye a red with alizarine on cotton which, while being a good colour, is not quite so fast to washing, etc., as a Turkey red. This is done by using fewer treatments, as shown in the following process:--
_Process_ 1.--Boil the cotton in soda.
_Process_ 2.--Oil with Turkey-red oil, as in the Turkey-red process No. 2 above.
_Process_ 3.--Mordant with alum or acetate of alumina.
_Process_ 4.--Dye with alizarine as before.
_Process_ 5.--Soap.
There are three distinct colouring matters which are sold commercially under the name of "alizarine". These are: alizarine itself, which produces a bluish shade of red; anthra-purpurine, which gives a similar but less blue red than alizarine; and flavo-purpurine, which produces the yellowest reds. The makers send out all these various products under various marks.
For dyeing Turkey reds the flavo-and anthra-purpurine brands or yellow alizarines are to be preferred; for pinks and rose shades the alizarine or blue shade brands are best.
_Alizarine Pink._--This can be dyed in the same way as Turkey red, only using for full pinks 4 per cent, of alizarine in the dye-bath, or for pale pinks 1 to 2 per cent. It is advisable to reduce the strength of the oiling and mordanting baths down to one-half.
_Alizarine Violet._--Alizarine has the property of combining with iron to form a dark violet colour, and advantage is taken of this fact to dye what are called in the dyeing and calico printing trades alizarine purples and lilacs, although these do not resemble in hue or brilliance the purples and lilacs which can be got from the direct dyes. They have not the importance which they formerly possessed, and but a mere outline of two processes for their production will be given.
_Alizarine Purple._--_Process_ 1. (1) Boil with soda, (2) prepare with Turkey red oil, (3) mordant by steeping in copperas liquor at 4 Tw. for twenty minutes, take out, allow to lie on stillages overnight, then wash and dry. For deep purples it may be advisable to repeat these treatments; for pale lilacs using them at half strength is advisable.
(4) Dye with 8 to 10 per cent. of alizarine blue shade, working as described under Turkey red. The best results are obtained when 1 per cent, of chalk is added to the dye-bath. (5) Soap as in red dyeing.
_Process_ 2. (1) Boil with soda, (2) oil with Turkey-red oil, (3) steep in pyrolignite of iron (iron liquor) for one hour, then age by hanging in the air. (4) Dye as before. (5) Soap.
Fine blacks are got if after oiling the cotton is treated with sumac or tannic acid, then mordanted with iron and dyed with alizarine as usual.
_Chocolate Browns._--Fine fast chocolate browns can be got from alizarine by using a mixed mordant of iron and alumina, either the acetate or the sulphate. By varying the relative proportions various shades can be obtained.
_Alizarine Orange_--Prepare the cotton as if for dyeing a Turkey red, but use in the dye-bath 8 to 10 per cent. of Alizarine orange.
_Alizarine Blue_--The cotton is boiled three hours with 3 per cent.
ammonia soda at 30 lb. pressure, and then washed thoroughly. The boiled, washed and hydro-extracted yarn is oiled with a solution containing from 1/4 lb. to 1-1/2 lb. Turkey-red oil, 50 per cent. for every gallon of water. It is then wrung out evenly and dried for twelve hours at 150 F.
_Tannin Grounding._
The oiled and dried cotton is worked three-quarters of an hour in a vat containing a tannin solution (1 oz. per gallon). The cotton remains in this liquid, which is allowed to cool off for twelve hours, then it is hydro-extracted. Sumac turns the shade somewhat greener, which is noticed especially after bleaching, therefore tannin is given the preference.
_Chromium Mordant._
The cotton treated with tannin and then hydro-extracted is worked cold for one hour in a vat containing a solution of chromium chloride at 32 Tw., and remains in this solution twelve hours. The cotton is then hydro-extracted and washed directly; it is best to employ running water.
A special fixation does not take place. The cotton is now ready for dyeing. The solution of chromium chloride and the tannin solution can be used continuously, adding fresh liquor to keep the baths up to strength.