_a._ Yarn contains thick bits and buns.
_b._ Knots are badly tied.
_c._ Discolored yarn.
_d._ Lacks solidity and firmness, due to the gauge being too coarse for the yarn.
_e._ Full work-yarn too thick for gauge.
=Experiment 55--Characteristics of a Crochet Fabric=
Apparatus: Crochet needle.
Material: Thread.
_Directions_
1. Crocheting is another method, like knitting, of making a fabric.
Examine the operation of crocheting. Notice that only one thread is made use of, and is formed into loops by means of a large needle with a hook at the end. The chief point is that the loops are not formed in uniform rows, but one loop at a time, and with the greatest liberty to choose any part of the article already made to form a new loop. For this reason, crocheting adapts itself to the production of fancy patterns useful for ornamenting.
2. A knitted fabric can be told from a crocheted fabric by noting that a knitted fabric is composed of rows or ranks of loops of a single yarn which interlock successively with similar rows or ranks of loops, while a crocheted fabric consists of a structure the basis of which is a thread crocheted or knitted into a chain which is attached at intervals to itself.
=Experiment 56--Characteristics of a Good Piece of Cotton Cloth=
Materials: Different samples of cotton fabrics.
Reference: _Textiles_, pages 151-152.
_Directions_
1. Examine different kinds of cotton fabrics. Compare the lowest, medium, and highest priced varieties of the same fabric. Notice how quickly the finish of a low priced cotton fabric with a _thick_ gloss loses its luster after washing.
2. Examine the different grades of the following fabrics: white lawn, Indian Head cotton suiting, muslin, lawn, and cambric. Wash the samples several times.
Does it pay to buy cheap cotton fabrics for underwear, etc.?
What are the characteristics of a good piece of cotton cloth?
=Experiment 57--Characteristics of a Good Piece of Woolen Cloth=
Materials: Different samples of woolens.
Reference: _Textiles_, pages 71-82.
_Directions_
1. Woolens differ from worsteds in having a more or less covered face, with the result that the weave rarely is noticeable, and the general color effects are much smoother and softer than those of worsteds.
2. Examine different grades of woolen fabrics, such as serges.
Defects.--If a piece of woolen is not constructed right from the start or if the work is not properly finished, that is, enough fulled in width or length, it is liable to be raggy or slazy. As a great many fabrics are more or less teaseled, there is a possibility of such pieces becoming too woolly and too hairy.
=Experiment 58--Characteristics of a Good Piece of Worsted Cloth=
Materials: Different kinds of worsted fabrics.
Reference: _Textiles_, pages 71-82.
_Directions_
1. A good piece of worsted fabric should have a clear outline of the pattern, perfection of weave lines, and when the fabric is exposed to light should show a luster without polish.
2. Examine different types of worsted fabrics, and notice how many conform to the above requirements.
3. The most essential point of worsted is that it should have a clean and even looking face. By clean is meant well sheared. By even is meant that the individual ends and picks used should be _even_ and not full of knots, or of any foreign matter. Of course, there are some exceptions, for instance, in an unfinished worsted which has more or less nap on the face, it could not be sheared absolutely clear, but at the same time, the face should be very evenly cropped.
Defects.--A serious defect would be if the cloth was not well sheared or if it contained many uneven cords and picks, or ends and picks missing, or coarse ends and slubs.
Examine different worsteds and notice any defects.
WORSTEDS.--Speaking generally, worsteds may be divided into two classes, distinguishable according to the _luster_ of their surface, or to the softness of their feel. They are used both for ladies' and men's wear. Worsted coatings may also be classed as worsteds. The coatings are woven in both single and double cloths in fancy weave effects for piece dyes, marketed in variety of finish, according to fashion.
Under this heading may be classified staple cloths, such as serges, clays, and fancy weave effects without any illumination. They can be finished in three ways:--Clear, undressed, and cheviot, used for ladies' dress goods or men's wear, according to weight.
The finish of the cloth varies according to the fashion, but there is always a certain demand for clear and undressed worsteds, for men's wear.
Examine a number of worsted fabrics and classify them.
SUITINGS.--The term suitings covers various manipulations of manufactured goods.
1. Tennis suitings, composed of all wool, or all worsted, white or cream ground, decorated with solid color, silk and weave stripe effects.
2. Piece-dyed worsteds, such as a blue ground with white silk line, cable cord, and fancy weave stripe effects, or any other ground shade color with its complementary decoration applied.
3. Mixture wool or mixture worsted yarns made into fabrics, decorations applied in color; cable, silk, and weave effects in stripes or overline color checks, suitable for men's wear, or decorated suitable for woman's wear. The darker shades for fall and the lighter shades for spring.
General weight of fabric for men's wear, 12 to 14 oz. per yd., 56 in.; general weight of fabric for ladies' wear, 8 to 12 oz. per yd., 54 in.
4. As a rule, when one speaks of a suiting, you expect to see a fancy effect, in the form of a fancy stripe, check, or a colored mixture, in loud or quiet tones of decoration. Long naps in fancy effects are sometimes fashionable, and at other times the cloth finish is popular.
This class may be subdivided into
1. Light weight for spring or fall.
2. Heavy weight for winter.