_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red, with minor quantities of blue, pink or orange, and ivory. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally eight to twelve; perpendicularly, sixteen to twenty-four. The rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at back and the weft is almost hidden. _Warp_, fine white wool; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. _Weft_, wool, of fine diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, fine wool, or occasionally silk, clipped short. _Border_, three stripes divided by smaller coloured lines. _Sides_, a blue double overcasting. _Both ends_, a narrow web and short warp fringe. _Texture_, firm. _Weave_ at back is of fine grain.
_Usual length_, four to ten feet. _Usual width_, three fifths to four fifths length.
[Illustration: PLATE 53. TURKOMAN RUG WITH KATCHLI PATTERN]
PRINCESS BOKHARAS.-The rugs known as Princess Bokharas are woven by the Mohammedan tribes who dwell in parts of the Khanate of Bokhara. They are nearly square and the field is divided into four equal sections by perpendicular and horizontal bands. Because of this pattern they are called "Katchlis," a word derived from the Armenian language signifying "like a cross." The bands generally have designs that are co-ordinate with those in part of the border; but not infrequently the designs of the horizontal band differ from those of the perpendicular one, and in a few rare instances consist of an octagonal figure. It is generally believed that the well-known Y-shaped motive characteristic of the field and the border is intended to represent the tree of life, but some native weavers suggest a different interpretation. To them the whole rug symbolises a mosque; the perpendicular arm of the cross is the entrance; the Y-shaped designs are benches; and the broad diagonal lines with serrated edges in the borders are groves of trees surrounding the mosque. A very large percentage of these pieces are namazliks. One of their peculiarities is the position of their unobtrusive tent-shaped prayer arch, which is in a panel entirely within their upper border.
Compared with Royal Bokharas their nap is rarely of as fine quality, the warp is usually of brown instead of cream white wool, and the weave is coarser. Also, the tones of colour are more sombre, and of browner shades; but in rare old pieces the rich mahogany and bronze hues of the ground, on which are represented small designs in shades of cream and dark blue, are exceedingly rich and pleasing. Unfortunately, within recent years large numbers of this class have been made solely for commercial purposes, and lack the finer qualities of their prototypes.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red or brown, with minor quantities of dark blue and ivory. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally eight to twelve; perpendicularly, fourteen to eighteen. The rows of knots are firmly pressed down, so that the warp is concealed at back and the weft partly hidden. _Warp_, brown wool or goat's hair; each of the two threads of warp encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back. _Weft_, wool, of fine diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool of short or medium length; occasionally some goat's hair is used. _Border_, three stripes, separated by narrow lines. _Sides_, a double overcasting or a double goat's hair selvage of three cords. _Both ends_, a web and warp fringe.
_Texture_, stout. _Weave_ at back is of moderately fine grain. _Usual length_, four and one half to six feet. _Usual width_, two thirds to four fifths length.
TEKKES.-A little over two centuries ago there lived on the peninsula of Mangishlar, on the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, an almost unknown tribe called the "Tekke," a term which is said to denote a mountain goat, and was applied on account of the headlong pace at which the men rode over rough mountain sides. About the beginning of the XVIII Century they packed their _khibitkas_,[34] and after moving southward to escape from the attacks of a more powerful tribe, they met the Yomuds in the southwestern corner of Turkestan and robbed them of their lands. Further eastward they snatched the fertile oasis of Ak-kal from some Kurds, whose ancestors a Shah of Persia had located there in earlier times to protect his kingdom from fierce northern tribes. By irrigating and cultivating the soil, they prospered and increased rapidly in population, until, about 1830, they numbered one hundred thousand. One fourth of them then moved eastward; and after settling on the banks of the Tajand, not far from the Persian town of Saraks, they attacked the inhabitants of Merv and captured the city. Growing thus to be a powerful people, they occupied much of the country between Persia and the Amu Daria.
Ever restless, they were constantly looking for weaker foes on whom to fall; and when a leader would announce an intended raid, hundreds or even thousands would meet at the appointed rendezvous prepared to blindly follow him. Sometimes it was through the passes that looked down into the fertile valleys of Northern Persia. Stealthily creeping through them they would fall unexpectedly upon an unprotected village and dash away with young women and children. If pursued, they would stab their captives, and if necessary, ride more than one hundred miles a day in flight. At other times, they would attack caravans crossing the deserts and carry away both camels and wares.
[Illustration: PLATE 54. TURKOMAN PRAYER RUG, WHICH ACCORDING TO A.
BOGOLUBOW HAS THE TYPICAL PINDe PATTERN]
Their raids, however, were not viewed with complacence by the Russians, who had been steadily advancing on the land lying between the Caspian and the Amu Daria, and whose armies the Tekkes harassed. At length in January, 1881, came the final death struggle in the memorable attack on the fortress of Geok Teppe, where thirty-three thousand tribesmen and seven thousand women and children had taken refuge. With the fall of that stronghold and the terrible punishment that followed, the power of the Tekkes was completely crushed; and a people whose ancestors for countless centuries had roamed the desert, recognising no master, yielded finally to the advance of civilisation.
These were the people whose wives and daughters wove the rugs generally known as Tekke Bokharas, of which large numbers with excellent weave and sterling dyes can still be found. As few of them were designed for mosques or palaces, it is very unusual to find pieces over one hundred years old, and even these are rare. Indeed, any that are now forty years old should possess great interest, as they were woven at a time when the Tekkes were still a fierce race. Very many have the Katchli pattern. The prayer arch, which is similar to that of Princess Bokharas, is in a panel exterior to the field and within the border. Not infrequently there are three arches in the same horizontal panel, which, as a rule, is above the field, but occasionally below it. In a great many of these rugs the three-leaf clover is found in some part of the field; and in the band of pile that extends beyond the border at one end are usually small conventionalised bushes with white and yellow flowers. The pattern shown in Plate L, Fig. 4 (opp. Page 250), appears almost invariably in the outer stripe.
There are other types, into one of which it would seem as if the very spirit of the desert had crept. Their dark ground colours are brightened by lighter tones that give an effect of strange yet not inharmonious beauty. A few would seem to speak of the early Zoroastrian faith, for in their fields are designs like stars with effulgent rays that suggest the burning altars of fire worshippers.
The shape or some peculiarity of the rug indicates the purpose for which it was intended. For instance, the rugs which were made for doors of the khibitkas have at the upper end a selvage with the web turned back and hemmed, and at each corner a heavy braided cord of about two feet in length, by which they were suspended. Other pieces have webs at both ends. Many beautiful pieces are made for use on horses or camels. Those intended for camels are of oblong shape with a field usually containing large octagons, between which are smaller octagons similar to those in Royal Bokharas.
Tekkes may be distinguished from the Princess Bokharas, which they resemble, by their goat's hair selvage at the sides, by one thread of warp to each knot being slightly depressed at the back, and by their coarser character. There is, however, a great similarity in the colours, though in the Tekkes tones of deep plum and rich red are not uncommon.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red, brown, or plum, with minor quantities of dark blue and ivory. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally seven to twelve; perpendicularly, nine to fourteen.
The rows of knots are slightly pressed down, but the warp shows at back.
_Warp_, wool or goat's hair; one of the two threads encircled by a knot is depressed below the other at back. _Weft_, wool of fine or medium diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool, or occasionally goat's hair of short or medium length. _Border_, three stripes, separated by coloured lines. _Sides_, a three-cord double goat's hair selvage. _Lower end_, a wide coloured web and long warp fringe. _Upper end_, a braided selvage turned back and hemmed, or occasionally a wide coloured web and long warp fringe.
_Texture_, firm. _Weave_ at back of moderately fine grain. _Length_, five to eight feet. _Usual width_, three fifths to four fifths length.
KHIVAS.-On the west bank of the Amu Daria, and stretching for two hundred miles above its mouth, is the plain of the Khanate of Khiva.
Most of the people live in khibitkas, and either follow a nomad's life or raise from the alluvial soil, that is watered by innumerable canals, crops of cotton, corn, and rice, as well as melons, peaches, and pomegranates. A large population, also, inhabits the city of Khiva, which before the building of the Siberian railway, was on one of the direct highways between east and west. Caravans of nearly two thousand camels regularly passed through it en route to Orenburg in spring and to Astrakan in fall, carrying wares from districts farther to the east as well as its own rugs and manufactured articles.
[Illustration: _COLOUR PLATE IX-SAMARKAND RUG_
_Although this rug is an excellent example of that class generally known as Samarkands, it was bought in Yarkand. Undoubtedly it was woven in some part of Turkestan that lies between these two cities; yet with the exception of the eight-pointed stars at the centre of the upper and lower medallions the pattern is characteristic of Chinese ornamentation.
Surrounding the central medallion, on a ground of rich deep blue, are six conventionalised butterflies, and near them are four clusters of pomegranates. At each end of the field are designs that suggest the tree of life, which under different forms appears so persistently in the woven fabrics of the East. The delicate drawing of these motives is accentuated by the formal character of the four corners and by the broad border of well-known stripes. It is a piece in which beauty of line and colour is combined with unsolved symbolism._
_Loaned by Mr. Hulett C. Merritt_]
On account of the constant intercourse between the Khiva and Bokhara tribes, their woven fabrics show a close relationship in patterns and colours; yet they contain important differences. Those made by the Khiva tribes are cruder, and reflect the effect of constant struggles against the rigours of the desert and the fierce Kirghiz from the steppes to the north. The wool is also coarser and longer, and the knots are much fewer to the inch. Occasionally geometric as well as animal designs suggestive of Caucasian influence occur. Moreover, the brownish threads of weft that separate each row of knots, are noticeable at the back, whereas in other Turkoman rugs the weft is hardly perceptible.
Many of the old pieces were very handsome, as is shown by the following description of an antique goat's hair carpet from Khiva by Dr.
Birdwood.[35] "The ground is of madder red, decorated with leaves and scrolls and lozenge-shaped forms in red, white, and orange, each lozenge being defined by a deep line of indigo blue. The ends terminate in a fringe. Professor Vambery says that these rich lustrous carpets are made entirely by the nomad women about Khiva, the head worker tracing out the design in the desert sand and handing out to her companions the dyed materials of different colours as required in the progress of weaving."
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red, with minor quantities of blue and ivory. _Knot_, Ghiordes or Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally six to ten; perpendicularly, eight to fourteen. The rows of knots are but slightly pressed down, so that the warp shows at back.
_Warp_, wool or goat's hair; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at the back. _Weft_, wool of medium or coarse diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool of medium length. _Border_, generally three stripes.
_Sides_, a double selvage of two or three cords, which is generally of goat's hair. _Both ends_, a web, one or more rows of knots and a warp fringe. _Texture_, stout. _Usual length_, four and one half to six feet.
_Usual width_, three fifths to three quarters length.
YOMUDS.-When, in 1718, the Yomuds were driven by the Tekkes from their homes in the well-watered region about Kizil Arvat, they moved to a less fertile country to the north and west. Though now numbering about one hundred thousand, they have few villages; and regardless of the dreary sand storms, the biting cold of winter, or the terrible heat of summer, they wander with their sheep and goats from place to place in search of more favoured spots. Sometimes their khibitkas are seen along the border of the Caspian Sea as far south as Astrabad in Khorassan, or among the sandy trackless wastes of Kara Kum, nearly as far north as the Aral Sea.
Many of their rugs rival the Royal Bokharas in wealth of colour. The prevailing tone of the field is usually red or maroon, but is sometimes rose, plum, or dark brown; and the remaining shades correspond with the blue, green, brown, and white of Tekkes. Contrasted with these is the ivory ground of the border, which, as a rule, has a much brighter colour than the field. Furthermore, the pile of the old pieces has a lustre that is due to the excellence of the dyes and the thick soft wool.
There are several distinct types, of which only one is well-known. Its pattern is clearly Turkoman, though the lesser designs show that there has been frequent intercourse with the weavers of Caucasia. Covering the field of these pieces are regularly placed diamond-shaped figures that suggest those of the Royal Bokharas, from which they may have been developed to the almost entire exclusion of the octagon; though the latter appears much less prominently in the centre of the diamonds. In the border occurs the running latch-hook, the barber-pole stripe, and a geometrically drawn vine. The webs of the ends, which are usually red and striped, are broad and have a fringe of goat's hair, sometimes braided into ropelike tassels, but more often hanging loose.
The saddle bags are of irregular shape resembling a flat walled tent, and contain in both field and border much brighter colour than the rugs.
Their field is checkered with diamond-shaped figures rich in ivory colour and separated from each other by diagonal barber-pole stripes; their border contains the running latch-hook.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red and mahogany brown, with minor quantities of blue, green, and white. _Knot_, generally Sehna, occasionally Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to eight; perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is largely concealed at back. _Warp_, coarse wool or goat's hair; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at the back, or one is slightly depressed below the other.
_Weft_, wool, of medium diameter, or occasionally wool mixed with goat's hair. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots.
_Pile_, wool, of medium length. _Border_, three stripes. _Sides_, either a two-cord selvage of red alternating with blue or brown, or a goat's hair double selvage of three or four cords. _Both ends_, a broad, reddish brown web through which, as a rule, run coloured lines or several narrow stripes, and a long warp fringe. _Texture_, stout.
_Weave_ at back is moderately coarse. _Usual length_, five to twelve feet. _Usual width_, two thirds to three quarters length.
BESHIRES.-On the Amu Daria and not far from Afghanistan is a small district from which the rugs known as Beshires now and then find their way to this country. As it is not far from several routes of caravans, these rugs show a relationship to the products of other Turkoman tribes.
Their colour scheme is principally the dark red and brownish tones found in Bokharas, Yomuds, and Khivas. The ends, too, have the web crossed by several lines, such as blue, green, and yellowish brown, that are usual in Afghans. The patterns sometimes contain a suggestion of the geometric figures of the Yomuds and some Caucasian pieces; and yet they have a striking character of their own. Not infrequently the field is covered with broad, irregular scrolls or foliate forms, unlike anything seen in any other class of rugs. Again the field may be occupied with a trellis pattern, which divides it into diamond-shaped figures. Within these are smaller diamonds surrounded by eight-pointed stars and quasi-floral forms. The borders, as a rule, are narrow and have simple designs that incline to the geometric; but a few are of fair width and are ornamented with rosettes and conventionalised leaves. In namazliks, which are rarely seen, the prayer arch lies within the field. Almost all of this class found in this country are old rugs; and on account of their rich, harmonious colours and unobtrusive yet distinctive patterns, are always pleasing and interesting.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red and brown, with minor quantities of blue, yellow, and white. _Knot_, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally seven to twelve; perpendicularly, seven to twelve. A half knot, as it appears at back, is as long as, or longer than, wide.
The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is almost hidden at back. _Warp_, generally goat's hair. Each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back, or occasionally one is slightly depressed. _Weft_, wool or goat's hair of medium or coarse diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool, of medium length. _Border_, generally three stripes, occasionally only one. _Sides_, a goat's hair selvage of two to four cords. _Both ends_, a wide web, crossed with several coloured stripes. _Texture_, stout. _Weave_, coarse. _Length_, four to twelve feet. _Usual width_, two fifths to two thirds length.
AFGHANS.-One of the most distinctive classes of Turkoman rugs is known in this country both as Afghans and Khivas. Both of these names are unfortunately applied; for their only title to be called the latter is that many were formerly exported from the bazaars of Khiva, and that they slightly resemble the rugs of that city. Nor are they strictly Afghans, since they come from the territory of mountain ridges and fertile valleys that stretches from the Hindu Koosh Mountains northward across the eastern part of the Khanate Bokhara, and are made by the tribesmen of both countries. In fact, they differ considerably from the rugs of Central and Southern Afghanistan, and bear no resemblance to those of floral pattern woven about Herat.
Within the territory where these rugs are made the Aryan and Teutonic races have met and blended; and across it have passed the armies of the greatest conquerors of Asia. Here still exist some of the most untamed races of the East, feeding their flocks on lofty table-lands, or cultivating patches of valleys, through which flow icy streams to form the Amu Daria. Here the rights of hospitality are held sacred, but wrongs are revenged without recourse to any tribunal.
When the antecedents, customs, and surroundings of the people are taken into consideration, it is not strange that their rugs should be strong and firm in texture, bold in design, positive and striking in colour.
Most of them are large and almost square in shape, though mats are not uncommon. The traditional pattern consists of perpendicular rows, usually three in number, of large octagons, that are almost in contact.
Between these rows are much smaller diamond-shaped designs, which consist in some pieces of a cluster of eight-pointed stars, and in others of a geometric figure that is occasionally fringed with hooks and contains within its centre an eight-pointed star.
With a few exceptions the octagons, which closely resemble those of Royal Bokharas, are symmetrical, and all their details are drawn as regularly as if the rugs were factory woven. They are invariably divided into quarters which usually are marked with a small figure like a three-leaf clover. The field contains but few adventitious designs and they are rarely animal, as the Afghans are Sunni Mohammedans. One of the most common of these designs, which appears also in the Tekkes and Yomuds, is probably intended to represent part of the headstall of camel trappings. The pattern of the border conforms to that of the field, but frequently has crudely drawn floral forms and a conventionalised vine.
The sides have an added selvage of brown goat's hair; and the ends are finished with reddish brown webs, from which hang loose fringes of dark wool or goat's hair.
[Illustration: PLATE 55. TURKOMAN RUG OF THE SALOR TRIBES]
As characteristic as the large bold octagons are the colours, which however subdued are invariably of rich hues. Those of the field consist of dark red, maroon, or reddish brown. The quarters of the octagon are of a deep blue alternating with a red that is lighter than the field. In some pieces this red is blood colour, or nearly crimson, standing out in bold relief against the adjacent blue and a field of maroon. Lines of green, orange, yellow, and white often appear in the body of the rug; lines of dark blue and a checkered pattern in red and blue are frequent in the red webs of the ends.
Though these rugs are, as a rule, heavier and coarser in texture than most other Turkoman rugs, the old pieces have a soft plushy nap of fine wool and goat's fleece, as well as richness of tone, that is very attractive. They are exceedingly durable and moderate in price.
_Type Characteristics._ _Colours_, principally dark red and mahogany brown, with minor quantities of blue, green, yellow, and white. _Knot_, generally Sehna, occasionally Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to eight; perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is largely concealed at back. _Warp_, coarse wool or goat's hair; each thread encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back, or one is slightly depressed below the other. _Weft_, wool, of medium diameter, or occasionally wool mixed with goat's hair. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. _Pile_, wool, of medium length. _Border_, three stripes. _Sides_, a goat's hair double selvage of three or four cords. _Both ends_, a broad web of reddish brown colour through which run several narrow lines or several narrow stripes, and a long fringe. _Texture_, stout. _Weave_ at back is moderately coarse. _Usual length_, five to twelve feet. _Usual width_, two thirds to three quarters length.