The sad news now reached him of the Mr Scott's death, and on the 28th of October his brother-in-law, Mr Anderson, breathed his last. "No event," Park remarks, "which took place during the journey ever threw the smallest gloom over his mind till he laid Mr Anderson in the grave.
He then felt himself left a second time lonely and friendless amidst the wilds of Africa."
Some days before this, Isaaco had returned with a large canoe, but much decayed and patched. Park, therefore, with the assistance of Bolton, one of the surviving soldiers, took out all the rotten pieces, and, by adding on the portion of another canoe, with eighteen days' hard labour they changed the Bambarra canoe into his Majesty's schooner "Joliba."
Her length was forty feet, breadth six feet; and, being flat-bottomed, she drew only one foot of water when loaded. In this craft he and his surviving companions embarked on the 16th of November, on which day his journal closes. He intended next morning to commence his adventurous voyage down the Joliba. Besides Park and Lieutenant Martyn, two Europeans only survived. They had purchased three slaves to assist in the navigation of the vessel, and Isaaco had engaged Amadi Fatouma to succeed him as interpreter. This increased their number to nine.
Descending the stream, they passed the Silla and Jenne without molestation; but lower down, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, they were followed by armed canoes, which they beat off, killing several of the natives. They had, indeed, to fight their way down past a number of places, once striking on the rocks, and being nearly overset by a hippopotamus which rose near them.
Having a large stock of provisions, they were able to proceed without going on shore. Amadi was the only person who landed in order to get fresh provisions.
At Yaour Park sent a present to the king by one of the chiefs, but, the chief inquiring whether he intended to return, Park replied that he had no purpose of doing so. This induced the chief to withhold the presents from the king, and who, accordingly, indignant at being thus treated, put Amadi into irons, took all his goods from him, and sent a force to occupy a rock overhanging the river where it narrows greatly. On arriving at this place, Park endeavoured to pass through, when the people began to throw lances and stones at him. He and his companions defended themselves for a long time, till two of his slaves in the stern of the boat were killed.
Finding no hopes of escape, Park took hold of one of the white men and jumped into the water, and Martyn did the same, hoping to reach the shore, but were drowned in the attempt. The only slave remaining in the boat, seeing the natives persist in throwing their weapons, entreated them to stop. On this they took possession of the canoe and the man, and carried them to the king. Amadi, after being kept in irons three months, was liberated, and on finding the slave who had been taken in the canoe, learned from him the manner in which Mr Park and his companions had perished. The only article left in the canoe had been a sword-belt, which Isaaco, who was afterwards despatched to learn particulars of the tragedy, obtained--the sole relic of the expedition.
Park could not have been aware of the numerous rapids and other difficulties he would have had to encounter on descending the upper portion of the Niger. In all probability his frail and ill-constructed vessel would have been wrecked before he had proceeded many miles below the spot where he lost his life. Had he, however, succeeded in passing that dangerous portion, he might have navigated the mighty stream to its mouth.
Although at first the account of Park's death was not believed in England, subsequent enquiries left no doubt that all the statements were substantially correct.
Thus perished, in the prime of life, that heroic traveller, at the very time when he had good reason to believe that he was about to solve the problem of the Niger's course.
CHAPTER FIVE.
TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.
PRECEDED BY HORNEMAN--ROENTGEN--TUCKEY AND OTHERS--MAJOR LAING'S JOURNEY--LIEUTENANT CLAPPERTON AND DR. OUDNEY, JOINED BY MAJOR DENHAM, LEAVE TRIPOLI--DIFFICULTIES WITH THE PACHA--DENHAM SAILS FOR ENGLAND-- THE PACHA SENDS AFTER HIM--BOO-KHALOUM APPOINTED CONDUCTOR--JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT--ILLNESS OF CLAPPERTON AND OUDNEY--NUMBERLESS SKELETONS OF SLAVES--ARABS' ILL-TREATMENT OF THE NATIVES--LAKE CHAD-- EMPIRE OF BORNOU--RECEPTION AT KOUKA BY THE SHEIKH--BODY-GUARD OF THE SHEIKH--BARCA GANA, HIS GENERAL--VISIT TO THE SULTAN OF BIRNIE--ELEPHANT AND BUFFALO HUNTING--DENHAM JOINS AN EXPEDITION UNDER BACA GANA--MEET THE SULTAN OF MANDARA--ATTACK ON THE FELATAHS--DENHAM NEARLY LOSES HIS LIFE--BOO-KHALOUM KILLED--BARCA GANA'S TROOPS TAKE TO FLIGHT--THE MAJOR KINDLY TREATED BY A DEPOSED PRINCE--RETURNS TO KOUKA.
Between Park's two expeditions, several travellers endeavoured to solve some of the many problems connected with the geography of Africa.
The first person sent out by the Association was a young German, Frederick Horneman, in the character of an Arab merchant. He travelled from Alexandria to Cairo, where he was imprisoned by the natives on the news arriving of Bonaparte's landing in the country. He was, however, liberated by the French, and set out on the 5th of September, 1798, with a caravan destined for Fezzan.
On one occasion, when passing through Siwah, the bigoted Mahommedan inhabitants surrounded the caravan, having heard that two Christians belonged to it, and promising to let it proceed provided these were delivered up to them. Having, however, by his knowledge of the Koran, satisfied them that he was a true Mahommedan, being protected by the other members of the caravan, he was allowed to proceed.
He reached Mourzouk in safety, and there endeavoured to gain information about the states to the south of Timbuctoo. He, however, heard but little, though he found that Houssa was not, as supposed, a city, but a region embracing many kingdoms, the inhabitants of which were said to be superior in civilisation to those of the surrounding people.
He remained here for a considerable time, and then visited Tripoli, after which he returned to Mourzouk, and started thence in April, 1800.
From that time no information was received directly from him; but Major Denham many years afterwards learned that he had penetrated as far as Nyffe on the Niger, where he fell a victim to disease.
Another German, Roentgen, also sent out by the Association in 1809, started from Mogadore and, it is supposed, was murdered by his guides.
Two Americans, one a seaman, named Adams, and the other a supercargo, James, having been wrecked on the west coast at different periods, travelled for a considerable distance through the north-west portion of the continent. Adams was carried to Timbuctoo, where he remained six months in 1810. He found the city chiefly inhabited by negroes; and he describes the few religious ceremonies which took place as pagan. The city had lately been conquered by the king of Bambarra, who had established there a negro government. Even the largest houses were little more than huts, built of timber frames filled in with earth. He was ultimately liberated by the British consul at Mogadore.
Riley, who was wrecked in 1815, was carried as a slave through the country. From a caravan merchant, Sidi Hamet, who purchased him from his first captors, he obtained much information about the country. From the account he received, it appears at that time that Timbuctoo was larger and better built than Adams described it. Sidi Hamet also travelled a considerable distance down the banks of the Niger, which, though at first running due east, afterwards turned to the south-east.
Travelling sixty days, he reached Wassanah, a place twice as large as Timbuctoo, the inhabitants being hospitable and kind-hearted. From thence he heard that boats with cargoes of slaves sailed two months, first south and then west, down the river, till they came to the sea, where they met white people in vessels armed with guns. This was the most correct account hitherto received of the course of the Niger.
Riley was also rescued by the English consul at Mogadore.
In 1816 the English Government sent out an expedition to proceed up the Congo, under Captain Tuckey, but he and his followers fell victims to the climate.
At the same time another expedition had started under Major Peddie, and Captain Campbell, but they both, with Lieutenant Stokoe, of the navy, died the following year.
In 1821 Major Laing, starting from Sierra Leone, made a journey in search of the source of the Niger, but was compelled to return.
In 1819 Mr Ritchie, with Lieutenant Lyon, of the navy, started from Tripoli, intending to proceed southward to Bornou, in order to trace the downward course of the Niger, but Mr Ritchie died, and Lieutenant Lyon was unable to get further than the southern frontier of Fezzan.
Owing to the judicious conduct of Mr Warrington, the British Consul at Tripoli, the English were held in high estimation at that court, and the pacha, who was looked upon by the wild tribes of the south as the most potent of all monarchs, assured him that any of his countrymen could travel with perfect safety from his territories to Bornou.
The Government, therefore, considering circumstances so favourable, organised a fresh expedition, headed by Lieutenant Clapperton and Dr Oudney, of the Navy. Major Denham having volunteered his services, they were accepted, and he joined his intended companions at Tripoli. He was accompanied by Mr Hillman, a shipwright, who undertook to direct the building of a vessel on the Niger.
After visiting the pacha, and having accompanied him on a hawking party in the desert, Major Denham set out on the 5th of March, 1822, to join his two companions, who had gone forward to the beautiful valley of Memoom.
When near Sockna, they met a _kafila_, or caravan of slaves, in which were about seventy negroes, who told them that they came from the different regions of Soudan, Begharmi, and Kanem. Those from Soudan had regular features and a pleasing expression of countenance.
On reaching Mourzouk they were disappointed in their expectation of receiving assistance from the sultan, who declared that it was impossible to obtain either camels or horses before the next spring, to enable them to proceed. Finding this, Major Denham determined to return to Tripoli, to represent to the pacha that something besides mere promises must be given.
Attended by his negro servant, Barca, he reached that town on the 12th of June, and the pacha himself showing little inclination to render assistance, he at once started for England, to represent the state of affairs to the Government. He was, however, overtaken at Marseilles by a messenger from the pacha entreating him to return, and assuring him that he had appointed a well-known caravan leader, Boo-Khaloum, with an escort to convey him to Bornou.
On his return to Africa he found Boo-Khaloum and part of the escort already waiting for him at the entrance of the desert. His new friend delighted in pomp and show, and he and his attendants entered Sockna attired in magnificent costumes, their chief himself riding a beautiful Tunisian horse, the saddle and housing richly adorned with scarlet cloth and gold. This African caravan merchant united the character of a warlike chief and trader, his followers being trained not only to fight in defence of his property, but to attack towns and carry off the hapless inhabitants as slaves. Yet Book-Haloum was superior to most of his age; he possessed an enlarged and liberal mind, and was considered an honourable and humane man, while so great was his generosity that he was adored by his people.
On the 30th of October the caravan entered Mourzouk with all the parade and pomp they could muster. Boo-Khaloum's liberality had made him so popular that a large portion of the inhabitants of the town came out to welcome him.
Major Denham was greatly disappointed at not seeing his friends among the crowd. He found that Dr Oudney was suffering from a complaint in his chest, and that Clapperton was confined to his bed; indeed the climate of Mourzouk is evidently very unhealthy.
The arrangements for starting were not completed until the 29th of November. In the meantime the other members of the expedition had somewhat recovered. Major Denham had engaged a native of the Island of Saint Vincent, of the name of Simpkins, but who, having traversed half the world over, had acquired that of Columbus. He spoke Arabic perfectly, and three European languages. Three negroes were also hired, and a Gibraltar Jew, Jacob, who acted as store-keeper. These, with four men to look after their camels, Mr Hillman and themselves, made up their household to thirteen persons. Several merchants also joined their party. Besides these, the caravan comprised one hundred and ten Arabs, marshalled in tens and twenties under their different chiefs.
The Arabs in the service of the pacha, who were to escort them to Bornou, behaved admirably, and enlivened them greatly on their dreary desert road by their wit and sagacity, as well as by their poetry, extemporary and traditional.
The camels and tents having been sent on before, the party started on horseback on the evening of the day mentioned. Dr Oudney was suffering from his cough, and neither Clapperton nor Hillman had got over their ague, a bad condition in which to commence their arduous journey.
The heat when crossing the desert was great; not a bird nor an insect was to be seen moving through the air; but the nights were beautiful and perfectly still, gentle breezes cooling the air. By digging a few inches into the hot, loose soil, a cool and soft bed was obtained.
Through wide districts the surface was covered with salt, and from the sides of hollows where it was broken, hung beautiful crystals like the finest frost-work.
Before proceeding far, objects sufficient to create the deepest horror in their minds were met with. In all directions the ground was covered with the skeletons of those who had perished in attempting to cross the wilderness. At first only one or two were seen, but afterwards as many as fifty or sixty were passed in a day. At one place a hundred were found together, and near the wells of El Hammar they were lying too thickly to be counted. One morning as Denham, dozing on his horse, was riding, he was startled by a peculiar sound of something crashing under the animal's feet, and, on looking down, he found that he was trampling over two human skeletons, one of the horse's feet having driven a skull before him like a ball. To some of the bones portions of the flesh and hair still adhered, and the features of others were distinguishable.
Two skeletons of females lay close together, who had evidently died in each other's arms.
The Arabs, accustomed to such scenes, laughed at the sympathy exhibited by the English, observing, with a curse on their fathers, that they were only blacks. There can be no doubt that the larger group consisted of a number of slaves captured by the Sultan of Fezzan, during a late expedition he had made into Soudan. His troops, having left Bornou with an insufficient supply of provisions, allowed their unhappy captives to perish, while they made their escape with the food intended to support them.
One evening the major exhibited a book of drawings made by Captain Lyon, to Boo-Khaloum. The portraits he understood, but he could not comprehend the landscapes, and would look at one upside down. On seeing a beautiful print of sand-wind in the desert, though it was twice reversed, he exclaimed: "Why, it is all the same!" Probably a European, even, who had never before cast his eye on the representation of a landscape, would be long before he could appreciate the beauties of the picture. One beautiful moonlight evening Denham exhibited his telescope. An old _hadji_, after he had been helped to fix the glass on the moon, uttering an exclamation of wonder, walked off as fast as he could, repeating words from the Koran.
Few adventures were met with; but one whole day the travellers were annoyed by a strong east wind, and the next day the wind and drifting sand were so violent that they were compelled to keep their tents. They had to sit in their shirts, as the sand could thus be shaken off as soon as it made a lodgment, which with any other articles of dress could not be done. Denham found the greatest relief by rubbing the neck and shoulders with oil, and being shampooed by his servant, Barca's wife, who, when a slave in the palace of the pacha, had learned the art.
The Tibboos, a tribe who had for some time accompanied them, went off to obtain some sheep, an ox, honey, milk and fat. On their return the milk turned out sour camels' milk, full of sand, and the fat very rancid, while a single lean sheep was purchased for two dollars.
Some of their horses were very handsome and extremely fat, which arose from being fed entirely on camels' milk, corn being too scarce for the Tibboos to spare them.
The girls of this tribe were pretty, but the men extremely ugly.
Their Arabs, who were sent as an escort to oppose banditti, after a time became dissatisfied at having nothing to do, and were evidently contemplating inroads on the inhabitants.