BIB
This joint is another brass to lead, and is the last single joint to be wiped in this course of joint wiping.
MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials required for this joint are as follows: 10 inches of 5/8-inch extra strong lead pipe; one 1/2-inch brass sink bib for lead pipe; one pot of solder, paste and paper, 1/2 and 1/2 solder, catch pan, and supports.
[Illustration: FIG. 31.]
TOOLS REQUIRED.--The tools required for this job are the saw, rasp, tap borer, bending irons, file, ladle, wiping cloths, shave hook, knife and rule, soldering iron.
PREPARATION.--To prepare the lead pipe after cutting from the coil and squaring the ends with the rasp is very similar to the 5/8-inch branch joint. The center of the pipe is marked and a hole is made in it with the tap borer large enough to admit the bending irons.
The hole is enlarged with the irons. A good substantial collar is made around the hole to hold the bib in place. One and one-eighth inches are marked off on each side of the branch and an easy curve connects the two. The paper is then cut out and pasted on the pipe after it has been scraped with the shave hook.
The end of the brass bib is filed bright and tinned with the soldering iron and 1/2 and 1/2 solder. Before the tinning is done, paper is put on the brass, leaving only 1-1/8 inches exposed. The tinning must be thoroughly done, or it will come off and have to be re-tinned.
SUPPORTING.--The bib is fitted into the lead opening and the collar is forced against the bib to hold it in place and prevent any solder from leaking through into the bore of the pipe. The bib must not extend too far into the lead pipe or it will obstruct the flow of water. The lead pipe is laid on two bricks the same as the round joint. The bib is laid on an angle of 45 pointing away from the wiper. Some bricks can be piled up to the right height to hold the bib in place and a solder strap can be made to hold it steady.
The lead pipe can be held steady by weighting each end. The catch pan is now placed under the joint and everything is ready for wiping.
[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Bib.]
WIPING.--When the solder is hot, getting the heat on the pipe is started. Solder should be dropped oftener on the brass bib than on the lead pipe. It takes more heat to heat the brass thoroughly than it does the lead. If this is followed out, little difficulty will be had in getting up the heat and in wiping. Use the branch cloth for wiping and make sure that all edges are perfectly cleaned before making the final strokes. As this is the only position that the joint will be wiped in, practice should be continued until perfect joints can be obtained.
POINTS TO REMEMBER.--
_First_, materials needed.
_Second_, tools needed.
_Third_, use tap borer.
_Fourth_, enlarge hole with bending irons.
_Fifth_, make substantial collar around the opening.
_Sixth_, paper the lead.
_Seventh_, file the bib, then paper.
_Eighth_, tin the bib.
_Ninth_, place in position and wipe.
DRUM TRAP
The making of the drum trap will bring out the skill of the beginner. The entire trap is made of lead pipe. The lead will require a great deal of handling. Therefore, care must be exercised in all operations to turn the trap out in a workmanlike manner.
MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials needed to complete this job are: 10 inches of 4-inch 8-pound lead pipe; 18 inches of 1-1/2-inch light lead pipe; paste and paper, support, solder, and catch pan.
TOOLS NEEDED.--The tools required for this job are: saw, rasp, bending irons, shave hook, bending spring, tap borer, dresser, ladle, drift plug, and wiping cloths.
[Illustration: FIG. 33.--Drum trap.]
PREPARING.--Take the 10-inch piece of lead pipe and hold it in one hand, in the other hand take a pine dresser. Strike the lead pipe with the dresser. The pipe is struck about 2 inches from the end and is beaten evenly all around. The pipe is then struck nearer the end until finally the bore of the pipe is almost closed. This closed end should be rounding and symmetrical. To get this shape the pipe must be continually moved and turned. One side must not be forced in more than the other. If there are any dents in the pipe or part of the pipe is forced in too much it may be driven out as follows: Take an old piece of 1/2-inch lead pipe and round one end of it with a hammer; this can be used by hitting the inside of the closed end of the drum and forcing out the dents. The rounded end of the trap is not quite closed and a hole about 3/4 inch is left.
This opening is closed by shaping the edges of it with the knife, making them smooth and beveled. Then a piece of lead is cut out of some scrap, the same shape as the hole and fitted into it. The top surface of this fitted piece should be a little lower than the surface of the pipe. Strike a circle, using the compasses, the center of the circle being the center of the inserted piece of lead. The lead inside of this circle is shaved clean with the shave hook, including the inserted piece. Paper is then pasted outside of the circle and should cover entirely the rest of the pipe. The inserted piece is wiped on the pipe as follows:
WIPING END.--Stand the 4-in. pipe in a pan with the rounded end of the pipe up. Be sure that the inserted piece is fitted securely.
The solder is now dropped on the paper and shaved portion of the pipe. Exercise considerable care not to burn a hole in the pipe. As the hot solder runs off, catch some of it and draw it back on the joint. When the solder can be manipulated freely and the pipe is hot, the joint can be wiped. The cloth is drawn across the joint, cleaning all the edges with one stroke. The joint should be shaped to complete the rounding surface of the pipe. The joint is comparatively easy and will not occupy much time. As soon as it is wiped, cover the solder with paper. This will preserve the freshness of the joint until all wiping is completed.
PREPARING INLET PIPE
After the above joint is completed, the 1-1/2-in. branch inlet pipe is prepared and wiped in place. The center of this branch is marked on the 4-inch pipe and a hole is tapped in the pipe, using the tap borer. A hole large enough to admit the bending irons is made. The hole is enlarged with the bending irons, bending the lead first _up_, then _back_. A piece of 1/2-inch iron pipe can be used as a tool to finish the opening. The iron pipe is larger in diameter than the bending irons and leaves a more finished surface.
The opening is made of sufficient size to admit the rasped end of the 1-1/2-inch pipe. When using the irons to enlarge the opening in the pipe, be sure not to bruise any part of the trap. The 1-1/2-inch pipe is now taken. The ends of this pipe are squared with the rasp. The drift plug is then driven through the pipe to take out any bruises or flattened places. The edge of one end is rasped off to fit the opening made in the 4-inch pipe. The beginner must strive to make a perfect fit. The accuracy with which these preparations are made is what helps in a large degree to bring about a successful job. The next operation is to paper the parts not to be wiped. The sizes of the joint should be followed as shown on the sketch. The pipe is first shaved with the shave hook, after which the paper is pasted on. No paste is allowed to get on the joint proper. The beginner should by this time have formed the habit of being neat with his work. Therefore the getting of paste on the joint surface shows that he is not as neat or as far advanced as he should be.
SUPPORTING.--The drum is laid lengthwise on the bench and blocks are put on each side to keep it from rolling, the branch uppermost.
The 1-1/2-inch pipe is held in position the same way as the vertical branch was held. The catch pan is put under the drum to catch the surplus solder.
WIPING.--Splash the solder on the branch pipe, also on the drum.
The burning through of the drum is an easy matter. Therefore do not keep dropping the solder on one place, but keep the ladle moving continually. With the catch cloth draw the solder up on the branch covering the top edge of the prepared surface. Splashing the solder on this top edge melts the solder already on and allows it to run down on the 4-inch pipe where it is caught with the cloth and again brought up on the top edge of the branch. When the solder works freely all around the joint, the top edge is wiped clean and even.
Then any surplus solder is wiped off. The bottom edge is next wiped clean, after which the body of the joint is wiped into shape, together with both edges. The edges are wiped very thin so that when the paper is removed the outline of the joint stands out very distinctly. A thick edge on a joint gives an unworkmanlike appearance to the work. The joint is finished with a cross wipe.
The other joints are prepared and wiped the same as the one just completed. The 1-1/2-inch branch connection taken out of the bottom of the trap is bent. As this is the first time it has been necessary to bend lead pipe in these jobs, I will cover this operation in detail. The pipe is first straightened and the drift plug driven through it. The pipe is marked where the bend is to be made. The bending spring, size 1-1/2 inches, is put into the pipe, the center of the spring coming about where the bend is to be made.
The pipe is then heated where it was marked to be bent. The proper heat for this pipe is just so that the hand cannot stand being laid against it. The pipe is held in the hands and on the end nearest the heat is hit against the floor at an angle. The pipe, with the first blow, will start to bend. With a few more strokes the desired bend will be obtained. The bending spring can now be pulled out.
Put a little water in the pipe, then put one end of the spring in the vise, twist the pipe, and the spring will come out when the pipe is pulled away from it. The bending spring holds the pipe cylindrical while it is being bent. Without the spring, the pipe would be badly crushed at the bend and rendered almost unfit for service. Another good way to bend pipe is to plug one end and fill the pipe full of sand, then plug the open end. The pipe is then heated where the bend is to be made. The pipe can then be bent over the knee. When all the joints are wiped, the paper should be taken off and the lead cleaned with sand and water. The trap is now complete except the brass clean-out to be soldered on the top. The inside of the trap should not have any rough edges or drops of solder in it.
[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Drum trap.]
There are two other drum traps to be made. The materials needed are the same as for the above trap except for 18 inches more of 1-1/2-inch lead pipe. The support, preparation, and wiping are the same. The beginner by this time should feel very well acquainted with lead and solder. Therefore, the details of these two drum traps can be left for the beginner to work out for himself. The sketches are very distinct and readable and will be of considerable assistance. The beginner should make these traps.
POINTS TO BE REMEMBERED.--
_First_, use 4-inch lead pipe, 8 pounds to the foot.
_Second_, dresser and spring are new tools. Study their use.
_Third_, gradually work the trap into shape with the dresser.
_Fourth_, plug the hole with a piece of lead pipe.
_Fifth_, prepare and wipe the plugged hole first.
_Sixth_, prepare and wipe the 1-1/2-inch branches.
_Seventh_, special care should be taken to keep the work neat.
_Eighth_, two ways of using the bending spring.
_Ninth_, wipe thin edges on joints.