The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting, edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat.
But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will look very pretty with this border. The square is worked in diamond netting, and has seven holes in length and breadth. They are darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with Mecklenburg thread.
The ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch round. For each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and the cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton.
Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the ground where it was first fastened; #work a second circle like the first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the last purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the same stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is fastened on to the same netted stitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from #, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that the square is edged all round. It is sewn into the material from the illustration.
65.--_Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages_ 574-5.)
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 30, or tatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle.
The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the whole of the rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter, with the five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with the following round of circles:--*Work first one circle of this round, consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at a short distance a circle like the one just made, in which, however, instead of working the first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then work at a short distance the first leaf of the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a short distance 4 times more from *; but in working the branches of the five-branched pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the purl of the first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms the centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one to each other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the scallops round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to the purl which joins the two next circles of the preceding round, and work one scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 2 double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette is completed, work eight rosettes in the same manner and join them into a circle from illustration by means of small three-branched patterns, and then join them on to the middle rosette.
The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves as follows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre, two rows of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of the largest circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance work a smaller circle of 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another short distance, a circle like the first joined on to it; then again a smaller circle, which at the place of the first purl is joined on to the purl of the preceding small circle. A short distance from this work again one of the larger circles just described, which is fastened on to the preceding similar circle; then repeat from * till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller circles. The first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the second outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must always be fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first half, as was done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette; besides this, each of the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double. When eight similar patterns have been worked, join them into a circle from illustration by means of small rosettes; this circle is then joined to the already-finished part of the cover. The small rosettes and remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily worked from illustration. The completed patterns are joined together in the course of the work.
TATTING COTTON
Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, in all sizes from 20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some Tatters, is sold in all sizes from to 120.
The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of either tatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels containing 100 yards:--
-------------------------------- ----------------- --------------- Tatting. Crochet. -------------------------------- ----------------- --------------- Petticoat Edgings and Insertions 20 0 and 12 Night Dress Trimmings 40 60 Lingerie Trimming 50 70 Collars and Cravats 50 70 Pocket Handkerchiefs 100 120 Parasol Covers 100 120 Antimacassars 20, 30 0 and 20 Pincushions 60 80 Caps 100 120 Lace 60, 80, 100 80, 100, 120 Insertions 20, 40, 80 40, 80, 100 -------------------------------- ----------------- ---------------
Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad to have some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to complete their work.
The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker is found to be two yards to the square inch with a single shuttle; three yards to the square inch with two shuttles.
EMBROIDERY
INSTRUCTIONS.
The art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric, pique, &c., is very easy to learn by strictly attending to the following instructions.
The size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of the material on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long, and the cotton must be soft. Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton is the best. Skilful embroiderers never work over anything, because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each stitch shows, and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes; but for those that are learning we should advise them to tack the material to be embroidered upon a piece of _toile ciree_. If you work without this, place the material straight over the forefinger of the left hand; the material must never be held slantways. The three other fingers of the left hand hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the right position to each stitch. The work must always, if possible, lie so that the outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. For the sake of greater clearness one part of the following illustrations is given in larger size than nature. Preparing the patterns is one of the most important things in embroidery, for the shape of the patterns is often spoiled merely because they have not been prepared with sufficient care.
[Illustration: 66.--Scallop.]
ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker cotton than that with which you work; never commence with a knot, and do not take a thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches. The outlines of the scallops are first traced with short straight stitches. In the corners particularly the stitches must be short. The space between the outlines is filled with chain stitches, as can be seen from illustration; they must not be too long, otherwise the embroidery will look coarse. It is in this way that every pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin stitch is to be prepared.
[Illustration: 67.--Double Overcast Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole stitch in a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to work from left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches, hold it with the thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert the needle downwards above the outline, draw it out under the same above the cotton which you hold in the left hand, and draw it up. Repeat for all the stitches in the same manner; they must be regular and lie close to one another.
Great care should be taken that the material on which you embroider is not puckered.
[Illustration: 68.--Overcast Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 68 (_Overcast Stitch_).--The double overcast and the button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst back stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to left. The stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast, only the needle must never be drawn out _above_, but _below_, the cotton with which you work, and which you keep down with the thumb of the left hand.
[Illustration: 69.--Slanting Overcast Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 69.--The slanting overcast stitch is worked without tracing the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that is, from top to bottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner shown in illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert it a little farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to it. The wrong side of the work must show back stitches. This sort of stitch is used for the fine outlines in patterns or letter.
[Illustration: 70.--Back Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 70.--This shows the back stitch, the working of which is well known; it is worked in several rows close to each other.
[Illustration: 71.--Point Croise.]
[Illustration: 72.--Point Croise.]
ILLUSTRATIONS 71 & 72 show another kind of back stitch, called _point croise_, which is only used on very thin and transparent materials. This stitch forms on the wrong side a sort of darned pattern, which is seen by transparence on the right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a thicker appearance, contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower leaves of the flower on illustration 110). For this stitch insert the needle into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern, so as to form on the wrong side a slanting line. Insert the needle again as for common back stitch; draw it out slanting at the place marked for the next stitch on the opposite outline, as shown in illustration 71.
[Illustration: 73--- Knotted Stitch.]
ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of working it is to work two back stitches at a short distance from each other over the same thread.
The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take about four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle half out, wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold it tight with the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to be worked.
[Illustration: 74.--Knotted Stitch.]
[Illustration: 75.--Knotted Stitch]
The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly the same manner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out of the material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the needle in the same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn the needle from left to right, so (follow the direction of the arrow) that its point arrives where the cotton was drawn out (marked by a cross in illustration), insert the needle there, and draw it out at the place of the next stitch.
ILLUSTRATIONS 76 & 77.--Raised satin stitch is principally used for blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &c. After having traced the outlines of the pattern, fill the space left between them with chain stitches in a direction different from that in which the pattern is to be embroidered; begin at the point of the leaf, working from right to left, make short straight stitches, always
[Illustration: 76.--Raised Satin Stitch.]
inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below.
The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches, must be begun from the point, because they thus acquire a better shape. If you wish to work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in illustration 77, you must trace the veining before you fill it with chain stitches, then begin at one point of the leaf and work first one half and then the other.
[Illustration: 77.--Raised Satin Stitch.]