32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.
34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted.
35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in the next round.
36th to 38th round: With red wool.
36th round: Knitted.
37th and 38th rounds: Purled.
39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches.
[Illustration 326.--Baby's Boot.]
Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th row: With red wool.
48th row: Knitted.
49th row: Purled.
50th row: Knitted.
51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red wool.
86th row: Knitted.
87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between the decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4 rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside; then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to match.
327.--_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting cotton; thick steel pins.
Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border, which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows:
5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.
Then 5 more plain rows.
[Illustration 327.--Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.]
Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more than from * to the end of the row.
2nd row: Purled.
3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways.
Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
4th row: The same as the second.
The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. The increasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeated in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the 28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th row. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border.
328.--_Knitted Quilt._
Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.
This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one row being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, that is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is knitted the short way.
[Illustration: 318.--Knitted Quilt.]
For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches.
2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4.
Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.
3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the preceding row, and purl all those that were made.
4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.
5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.
7th row: The same as the 5th.
8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on.
9th row: The same as the 5th row.
10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *.
11th row: Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.
13th row: The same as the 11th.
14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, purl 4, and repeat.
15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2 together, knit 2.
The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 in this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitches instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4 more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim the quilt all round with a knotted fringe.