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This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural colours of the flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one colour, on silk canvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and should be worked in raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in gold twist.

162.--_Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch Embroidery_.

Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1 skein of brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the flowers.

[Illustration: 162.--Acacia Spray.]

This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch embroidery; the flowers should be carefully shaded, and the veinings should be worked before the leaves are embroidered. The flowers may be worked gold colour, or imitate the white acacia blossom.

[Illustration: 163.--Tobacco Pouch.]

[Illustration: 164.--Tobacco Pouch.]

163 _and_ 164.--_Tobacco Pouch_.

Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth for the pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass rings; gimp cord; and silk tassels.

This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full size; the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These patterns represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are cut out of cloth and worked in applique over crimson cloth.

In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from which the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case yellow in cloth applique, the cigars brown in satin stitch. The case is crossed by two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and edged all round with button-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes are of white cloth, edged round with yellow silk; the shade is imitated by long stitches of grey silk. The upper part of the pouch is of blue cloth, with a white silk edging and yellow dots; the under part of brown cloth with a black edging and a pattern worked in chain stitch with white; the three tassels are embroidered with black and yellow silk.

In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the small pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes of white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The bundle of cigars is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on with double rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light green cloth, edged with white; the Grecian pattern and dots are embroidered over it with white silk also.

To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together by seams, which are hidden under yellow soutache; cut out also and join in the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten it on to the crimson cloth at the top only. Sew small brass rings round the top, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk tassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of its four corners.

165.--_Insertion_

Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.

16.

[Illustration: 165.--Insertion.]

This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. It is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; the circles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or the pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the linen cut away.

166.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, Workbaskets, &c._

Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glace silk; gold beads.

This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe, with coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton, and ribbon are worked in applique with glace silk. The colours are chosen according to personal taste. The thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. A bead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate the screw.

[Illustration: 166.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.]

167.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, &c._

Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads.

The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers in point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; the interior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dotted stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon is embroidered in applique, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon.

[Illustration: 167.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.]

168 _and_ 169.--_Travelling Bag_

Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2 shades of a pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white, brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid.

[Illustration: 168.--Travelling Bag.]

This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when completed, the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This bouquet is also worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the white wool is passed several times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the required thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with white silk. The centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellow silk. The buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white silk at the point instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of green wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are embroidered in overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border round the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel beads.

[Illustration: 169.--Bouquet for Travelling Bag.]

The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured purse silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, by inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. When you have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work on either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk, which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the Java canvas being covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow outline comes a border worked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this border is alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. A star is embroidered in point Russe in the centre of each square; it is grey in the blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in the middle of each star. The small crosses between the squares are worked in cerise. The outer border of the work is composed of a piece of black soutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front and back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side pieces are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14 inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined with light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp.

170.--_Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices_.

Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.

This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming.

It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-hole stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loose button-hole stitch in black silk. The feather-like branches are worked likewise in black silk in herring-bone stitch. The white spots are worked in raised embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow ribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches:

[Illustration: 170.--Trimming for Bodices.]

171, 172, _and_ 173--_Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery_.

This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; if lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The patterns, which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or; the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. The flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration on account of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at the corresponding places. No. 172 shows the wing of a bird, No. 173 a rose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely in button-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This pattern may also be worked on glace silk with purse silk.

[Illustration: 171.--Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery.]

[Illustration: 172.--Wing of Bird.]

[Illustration: 173.--Rose Leaf.]

[Illustration: 174.--Pattern for Glove Box.]

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